More Hawaii - On The Big Island

Continuing our grand Hawaiian journey with Norwegian Cruise Line and Virgin Holidays, aboard the only year-round ship to sail purely in Hawaii, Pride of America…

The Big Island - Pt 2

Having had a full day to explore the volcanic side of the Big Island from Hilo, our next visit brought us to the city of Kona, and the heart of Coffee Country on Hawaii's biggest island. The weather wasn't quite as bright today (it stayed heavily overcast with a mixture of cloud and 'vog,' the local term for the volcanic haze resulting from Kilauea), but it didn;t curtail any of our activities. 

With Kona coffee world-renowned for its quality, we had the chance to join another Roberts Hawaii excursion to see the historic side of this part of the island, starting with the Royal Kona Coffee company (overlooking superb Kealakekua Bay).

Here, in the heart of Kona's coffee-growing region (where Hawaii is the only US state to grow coffee), we were able to sample the many varieties coming straight from their own production process - and then buy some to take home!

In reality, we could probably have done with a bit longer here but Dean, our driver was once again a great source of info (and jokes!) as we headed to the historic royal site of Pu'uhonau o Honaunau National Park, where Hawaiian royalty lived and law-breakers who transgressed the all-powerful Kapu (the king's sacred laws) could try to save themselves at the pu'uhonau, or place of refuge.

It provided a fascinating look at the island's heritage and culture and showed yet another facet of this amazing region, as well as offering a chance to see the island's wonderful sea turtles, who crawl up on the beaches here - but most not be approached within 20ft.

That was followed by a trip to the Painted Church of St Benedict's, built in 1899 and still a minor marvel to this day, set as it is among some beautiful tropical plants and foliage.

Once again, the tour underlined the immense variety (and friendliness) of Hawaii and, having a full day in port (albeit with a tender ride into the harbour) again ensured we got full value for our visit here.

With NCL's unique role among the islands, it definitely felt like we were getting under the skin of the destination, which is a rarity with modern cruising.

And it was only going to get better...

Next up - Amazing Kauai

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The Grand Hawaii Cruise - Part 5

Continuing our grand Hawaiian journey with Norwegian Cruise Line and Virgin Holidays, aboard the only year-round ship to sail purely in Hawaii, Pride of America…

Pride Of The Fleet

So, we’ve been focusing primarily on the destination so far as we have sailed from Honolulu to Kahului (Maui), Hilo (the Big Island) and Kona (also on the Big Island), en route to Nawiliwili (Kauai) and then back to our starting point on the island of Oahu.

But what about our travelling vehicle for the week, I hear you ask? Well, the Pride of America is an eight-year-old member of the Norwegian Cruise Line fleet but a very different proposition in many ways. She is the only American-flagged vessel, which means she carries primarily an American crew and therefore conforms to the Jones Act, which prevents foreign-flagged ships from sailing just in US waters.

All other vessels to Hawaii have to call at a Mexican or other foreign port to comply with the Jones Act, which prevents them from operating the kind of unique 7-day itineraries the Pride offers.

That, in turn, means she can feature overnight stays in Maui and Kauai and still cover all four main  islands in a week. Hence this is a singularly Hawaiian vessel, with the onboard style and ambience to match. None of the other 200-plus cruise ships in the world can do this.

With that advantage in mind, this modern 2,000-passenger floating hotel (it is, really, a resort in all but name, as virtually all of the sailing is done at night) is still an attraction in its own right, with a terrific range of restaurant choice, plenty of entertainment offerings and, of course, Norwegian’s distinctive Freestyle system, whereby guests can choose where and when they dine and avoid any of cruising’s traditional formality and rigidity.

This is not a dress-up cruise in any way, shape or form (although you are free to don jacket and tie or evening gown if you so wish), and the ultra-relaxed Hawaiian style is perfectly at home with the Freestyle ethos.

The Pride is also a stylish little (if 80,400 tons can still be called ‘little’ these days) cruiser, with some subtle, small-scale rooms and décor and an easy-on-the-eye overall design concept that puts a lot of her glitzy brethren to shame (witness the two-storey central atrium, which is a far cry from the huge, multi-storey offerings on many other ships of a similar size).

For dining choice there are the two main dining rooms, the Skyline (breakfast, lunch and dinner) and the Liberty (dinner only), with the latter offering a slightly more intimate and upscale style. The extensive Aloha Café is the buffet alternative for all three meals, while the small-scale Cadillac Diner offers menus around the clock and 24/7, meaning the old Midnight Buffet is a thing of the past.

Another lunch alternative can be found at the on-deck Key West Bar & Grill and Ocean Drive (counter service), while those happy to pay a little bit extra for excellent sushi and Asian noodles can also enjoy the East Meets West restaurant (with a la carte pricing).

Finally, the dinner choice extends to a full 11 options, with the above four joined by East Meets West (Asian, at a $15 supplement), the Lazy J Steakhouse (which is also used for breakfast and lunch for Suite guests, plus an elegant dinner at $25/head), Little Italy (tasty Italian, at a $15 supplement), the Teppanyaki Room (Japanese ‘Teppan’-style dining at $25/head), more Asian at Shabu Shabu (a $15 supplement), the Sushi bar (a la carte) and the signature French restaurant of Jefferson’s Bistro (at $20/head).

Just in case anyone loses track of the alternatives, there is also 24-hour room service and a 24-hour Pizza delivery (at $5 extra). It is a fabulous array and, while the main (no-extra-fee) dining is certainly a fine choice, we especially like the excellent Chinese fare at East Meets West, the Italian splendour of Little Italy and the true gourmet style of Jefferson’s (see bottom picture).

As an additional note, a big April 2013 refit of the ship, which will completely remodel Deck 13 with its rather empty spaces and add more suites, will provide the additional choice of a Brazilian Churrascaria restaurant while the Lazy J will be transformed into Cagney’s, the truly superb steakhouse currently aboard Norwegian Epic.

Entertainment simply is everywhere on this ship, which is another Norwegian trademark. From the small-scale (art auctions and pub games around some of the nine bars) to the music-orientated (with the likes of singer/guitarist Tim Dion in the Napa Wine Bar, pianist David Pellegrene in Pink’s Champagne Bar and the Hawaiian Kama’aina Duo, plus pool deck band The Wave and a resident DJ), and on to the grand shows at the Hollywood Theater.

These latter have featured some big-stage productions and the resident singers (notably for the excellent Frankie Valli tribute show, above), plus visiting band Toby Beau and comedian Noodles (who have also appeared in the Mardi Gras second show-lounge). Pool parties, karaoke and a crew show complete an impressive line-up, ensuring there is always something for everyone.

Our favourites? Definitely the Frankie Valli/Four Seasons show, plus Tim Dion for an excellent range of music in the Wine Bar, with his distinctive voice proving a great reason to just sit and listen.

Elsewhere, Hotel Director Tony Winkler keeps everything humming along with smooth Austrian precision while Cruise Director Scottie belies his youthful looks with a polished approach to the entertainment quotient. Concierge manager Thomas is a real gem while other staff to catch our eye include bright young waitress Siraya at the Lazy J each morning and Stephanie in the Skyline dining room.

Our cabin steward, Francis, also deserves a name-check for seemingly always being ready with a cheery greeting when we leave our cabin, which always turns out to be spotlessly clean and tidy when we return, as if by some sleight of hand that puts him in at least two places at once.

Everyone is unfailingly polite and efficient, though, and the spirit of Aloha comes through in almost every aspect of the ship.

But, for all her charms, Pride of America does have to take second place for much of the time – to the magnificent islands of Hawaii.

Because, we must confess, we have spent just about every moment in each port of call off our maritime ‘home,’ with the opportunity to really get under the skin of these amazing isles, even in just seven days.

Being second-best to a destination like this is no real handicap, though. And, with the forthcoming refit due to spruce up the few areas of the ship that are showing her age (notably on some of the outer decks), it seems clear the Pride will continue to provide a great experience for some time to come.

Next up: Coffee Country on the Big Island.

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More Hawaii - Exploring The Big Island

Continuing our grand journey around Hawaii with Norwegian Cruise Line and Virgin Holidays, aboard the only year-round ship in the region, Pride of America…

Destination Hawaii – Hilo

It’s now absolutely clear Norwegian have a clear and abundant speciality for cruising in these waters, both on board and ashore. After two days in Maui, we head straight for the Big Island, with two successive ports of call to showcase the ‘live’ volcanic heart of the islands.

After Haleakala on Maui, we’re keen to see the world’s most active crater, that of Kilauea and, for that, we need the port of Hilo, which is only some 38 miles away.

After another impressive breakfast at the Lazy J Steakhouse (one of the highly worthwhile perks of the 52 suites onboard), we are encouraged by the early-morning cloud giving way to blue skies. Thanks to the folks at Go Hawaii and their tour partners Roberts Hawaii, we are lined up for the big six-hour excursion to all the key points hereabouts.

The organisation is first class and we are off on the dot of 9.30am in the company of driver/narrator Hank, who quickly proves to be an absolute mine of information and maintains a steady and informative commentary throughout.

It also proves to be a long day, but immensely worthwhile as Hank manages to pack a huge amount into the time available.

Volcanoes National Park is the undoubted and unparalleled highlight, though, as we are able to visit the Jaggar Museum on the edge of this highly active lava field that dates back to the early 1980s. Once again, the main vista is truly awe-inspiring, a crater-within-a-crater scenario of smouldering, fiery ruin.

The extent of the volcanic field here is mind-boggling and the effect of witnessing all the volcanic activity up close and (almost) personal is over-powering. In quick succession we visit the main overlook, a subsidiary crater, the Thurston Lava Tube (an eerie walk-through tunnel that was once filled with red-hot magma) and a lava field from 1984 that is now a barren, other-worldly scene (below).

The presentation of the different sites, plus Hank’s constant narrative, puts everything neatly in place, but it is clear you could spend several days here and still not see everything.

Coming back down from the 4,000ft high National Park, we call in at a famous Orchid Farm and then the Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Factory (complete with samples, snacks and extensive gift shop!), where a good range of “Christmas presents” are added to our rapidly-growing swag bag.

The Rainbow Falls are something of a disappointment as the water is simply not flowing at the moment (something about a diversion as part of a new hydro-electric scheme) but that is soon forgotten at the Big Island Candy Co, where a great range of samples (with coffee) lead to even more present-buying! There are some wonderful chocolate-covered delicacies on offer, and we are rapidly approaching the stage where more luggage may well be needed for the journey home.

This evening’s dinner is a special one, as we have been invited to dine with one of the officers at the Liberty Dining Room (one of the two main restaurants, along with the Skyline). We are lucky enough to be on the table with Hotel Director Tony and Computer Systems chief Dave, and the evening’s fare matches the company, with an excellent Swordfish in a chimichurri sauce one of the highlights.

The main show at the Hollywood Theater is ‘Oh What A Night,’ a tribute to Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons, with a superb rendition of their (extensive) greatest hits by the ship’s four male lead singers in a slick, sharp performance.

But that’s not all the entertainment in store, not by a long chalk. Our course from Hilo to Kona on the other side of the island takes us along the south coast and the active lava field from Kilauea that is still spilling into the sea (and creating more Big Island daily!).

The sail-past at 10pm is announced on the main tannoy and most of the passengers are on deck for the intense view of this Dante-esque vista as the vivid red/orange lava pours out of tubes and other crevices into the immediate cooling effect of the Pacific Ocean. We are several miles away but the constant outpouring of lava is unmistakable – and absolutely riveting.

Captain Nesheim completes one pass on the starboard side then swings around to present the port view, ensuring everyone gets their fill of this unforgettable experience.

Truly, the Hawaiian islands have visual splendours aplenty, and today’s many different views are just off-the-charts spectacular. Together with Norwegian’s obvious expertise in the area, it makes for a powerful cruise combination.

Next up – more about our floating home.

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Hawaii - More Time In Maui

Continuing our grand journey around the Hawaiian isles with Norwegian Cruise Line and Virgin Holidays, aboard the Pride of America…

Destination Hawaii – Maui, Pt 2

It’s Day Three of our grand Hawaiian adventure and, as usual, we’re wide awake at Silly O’Clock. With the five-hour time difference from Florida, we’re finding it difficult to sleep much past 6am (with our bodies still insisting it is 11am), but at least we’re getting plenty of time to experience both the ship and the destination!

This morning, we’ve been invited to breakfast at the Lazy J Steakhouse, which is usually reserved for suite guests but Norwegian would like us to get the full onboard experience, hence we are temporarily VIPs for the duration.

This breakfast option (which is also open to suite guests at lunchtime) provides a full alternative to either the main dining room or the Aloha Café buffet and is a wonderful idea for those who like that little ‘extra’ touch. It features a slightly more imaginative menu – including the likes of Crab Cakes Benedict and Smoked Salmon Frittata – as well as a full regular choice of fresh fruit, cereals and pastries, and a more relaxed vibe, hence it adds a real deluxe feel to the regular experience.

Once fully re-stocked (it is impossible to ever go hungry on a cruise, of course!), we are ready for the next item on our Hawaii agenda, which is the second full day on Maui and another chance to explore on our own with our trusty Dodge Caliber rental car (which we were able to park overnight right next to the ship – incredibly handy).

Our first target is to drive up the mountain of Haleakala and view the (dormant) volcano but, thanks to talking to our good friend Stewart Chiron (The Cruise Guy and general Hawaii expert), we know this is not a light undertaking.

Stewart had advised us to make this a morning priority while also being careful to stay fully hydrated and take some energy food with us to counter the effects of the quick journey to 10,000ft (as the altitude can be a problem if you’re not careful). We were also told it can be distinctly chilly at the summit, hence we dressed for a colder day than the standard 82F down at sea level.

Thankfully, we were blessed with superb weather nearly all the way – and an absolutely stunning experience as a result.

Haleakala forms the main part of Maui, dominating the eastern ‘half’ but, from a distance, looking less challenging than the more rugged western mountain portion. The perspective is a deceptive one, though, as the road up is long and winding (a real switchback in several places) and, with our desire to stop at regular intervals to enjoy the view and try to acclimatise a little, it takes us a full two hours to complete the drive.

With the near-perfect weather, we drive up through the ever-present layer of cloud around the mountain’s ‘midriff’ and emerge into clear, blue sunshine of the brightest and most inviting kind. It is immensely invigorating and – thankfully – we show no signs of being worried or affected by the big altitude difference.

It is $10/vehicle to enter Haleakala National Park and there are two separate visitor centres to enjoy, with plenty of information to take in and park rangers to talk to. We learn about the amazing and unique ecosystem atop the mountain, with plants like the remarkable Silversword, which blooms only once, right at the end of its near 50-year life cycle, and the Nene goose, Hawaii’s national bird, which lives in this rather bleak environment. There are also massive amounts of info on Haleakala and volcanoes in general, especially the Shield type which is basically all of Hawaii.

The vertical rise of the mountain causes some startling vegetation and other scenery changes, from heavy forest and lush tropical plants to open fields and then a more scrubby plant-life that then gives way to the rocky, arid summit.

The last 1,000ft or so is pure alien planet territory, an extensive volcanic field of rock and scree, but even that doesn’t prepare us for the view inside the crater itself.

Haleakala last erupted at the end of the 18^th century and it is now possible to hike down into the crater from the main observation centre – a journey that takes you into the heart of a stunning vista of dormant cinder cones, red, iron-rich soil changes, huge boulders, craggy cliffs and vast stretches of volcanic scree and dust that disappear into the distance.

When JRR Tolkien was writing about the evil wastes of Mordor, he might very well have had the interior of Haleakala in mind. It is a view that amazes and boggles the mind, challenging the viewer to understand the immense forces of nature at work here, primal forces that have shaped the earth from the very beginning.

It is also a vista that shifts and alters from every angle (and there are numerous viewing points at the 10,023ft summit), including the ‘Science City’ of observatories and military tracking stations that live up here as well. We spend at least two hours observing, photographing and marvelling at this most astonishing of scenes, chatting to rangers and other visitors and just generally revelling in the experience.

We had thought we could fit in a trip to Lahaina on the other side of the island – the former Royal residence and whaling centre in the 19^th century – but with the fact it will take us at least an hour to make the drive down, then another hour to get there, we decide that will be trying to cram too much into the day, especially as we need to return the car to the airport rental depot then be back at the ship by 5.30pm.

But we are immensely rewarded for our time on the mountain. It is a truly remarkable experience and one we will be keen to repeat in future, if at all possible. The weather had begun to close in as we lingered at the top, bringing in a thick veil of cloud and dropping the temperature by a good 10 degrees, hence we opted against a short hike into the crater itself. But this will certainly be on our ‘To Do’ list next time…!

Next up – The Big Island.

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Cruising Hawaii - Maui

Continuing our grand journey around the Hawaiian isles with Norwegian Cruise Line and Virgin Holidays, aboard the Pride of America…

Destination Hawaii – Maui, Pt 1

It’s pretty obvious why you cruise with Norwegian in these parts – it’s the pure, undiluted Hawaiian experience. No-one else can provide the big-ship style around only Hawaii, and the true island effect kicks in straight away.

After leaving Honolulu at 8pm, we are in the port of Kahului, Maui, by 7am the next day. Even better, we have an overnight stop here, so there is plenty of time to soak up the island’s vibe.

Our plan here is twofold – take in a typical local excursion (as provided by the folks of Roberts Hawaii tours) and then hire a car to see as much as possible under our own steam.

Today’s order of business, heading out at 8.30, is the Iao Valley & Plantation Tour, taking us up into the western part of the island and seeing some of the local vegetation and scenery – including the Iao’s Needle outcrop in the steepest part of the valley – before heading further along the flanks of the volcanic outcrops hereabouts for the Maui Tropical Plantation visit, which includes a 40-minute narrated tram tour around the extensive property.

The 4-hour tour was excellently narrated and led by our young driver Mike and we got some wonderful insight into the vegetation and geology of the area.

After a quick lunch in the ship’s Cadillac Diner (an excellent free alternative to the main dining room and the Aloha Café buffet choice), which offers a tasty array of sandwiches, salads, soups and other diner fare, it was time to call up the (highly efficient) Dollar car rental shuttle and collect our pre-booked car at Kahului Airport (booking in advance is essential, as it can be VERY busy for car rentals on the island).

After a quick drive around Kahului (not the most picturesque of spots, it has to be said, as it is more functional town than resort), we headed south to Wailea and the swanky part of Maui, home to the likes of the Four Seasons, Fairmont, Marriott and other high-end hotels.

The beaches here are first class, and the Shops of Wailea make an upscale retail choice. The coastal drive is impressive and, further along, Kihei provides a more touristy (translation: more budget-priced) option for hotels, shopping and dining, with rather more interesting outlets than the big-name brands like Gucci, Prada and Swarovski back in Wailea. The sea-walk here is another pleasant amenity, while the Lava Java coffee shop serves a truly heavenly coffee smoothie!

Our other target for the day was dinner at Mulligan’s on the Blue, a smart Irish-themed restaurant adjacent to the big golf course here.

As well as some excellent food, the big attraction on Sundays is the live music of the Celtic Tigers, led by local singer-songwriter Murray Thorne (who just happens to be a cousin of mine from the Canadian branch of the family!).

Murray is an immensely talented guitarist and singer in his own right (check out his award-winning album, Tin Can Telephone online), but the Tigers are his Irish folk/rock group who have become an institution hereabouts.

Although I’d never seen them play live, it was immediately clear why they are so popular, as their mix of folk and rock comes across as energetic, crafty, melodic and immensely captivating, with the four-piece (guitar, drums, fiddle/mandolin and bass) providing a full evening’s entertainment in best Irish fashion, from traditional ballads to U2.

We stayed late into the evening listening and chatting with Murray and his band, and left only reluctantly, as we hoped to get to both the big Haleakala volcano and the former royal town of Lahaina next day…

Up Next - Close Encounter With A Volcano.

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Aloha, Hawaii!

Well, we're here in Honolulu, getting ready for our 7-day cruise with Norwegian Cruise Line (with help from Virgin Holidays).

We don't board the Pride of America until late this afternoon, so we'll take the opportunity to see something of Waikiki Beach first before we head out to see three of the other islands (Maui, The Big Island and Kauai).

We're staying at the uber-chic Honululu Modern hotel, with a great view of one end of Waikiki Beach, and we've also taken a nice series of photos of sunrise (as we were wide awake at Silly O'Clock with the 5-hour time difference from Florida).

Hope you enjoy the view...!

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NCL's Big Changes For 2013

Norwegian Cruise Line has announced its summer deployment for 2013/2014, with a four-ship deployment in Europe – continuing with two ships based in the region year-round.

New to the European fleet is Norwegian Star, which replaces the Sun in the Baltic, further increasing the capacity in this popular cruise destination. Further highlights include the addition of a third ship in Alaska, sailing seven-night ‘open jaw’ itineraries between Vancouver, British Columbia, and Whittier, Alaska.

In Europe, Norwegian Epic (above) returns for her third season, sailing seven-night Western Mediterranean itineraries from Barcelona from May 5, 2013, to October 13. A new itinerary features five ports of call in three countries - Spain, Italy and France - and a call to Palma in Majorca.

Norwegian Jade returns to Venice in May for the summer season and will offer alternating seven-night Greek Isles and seven-night Adriatic, Greece and Turkey itineraries. In the Autumn/Winter, Jade repositions to Rome (Civitavecchia) for a series of eight 10-night Eastern Med and nine 11-night Mediterranean & The Holy Land itineraries from October 26, 2013, to April 12, 2014.

In Alaska, beginning May 20, 2013, Norwegian Sun’s northbound itinerary to Whittier departs Vancouver on Mondays and will cruise the Inside Passage, Glacier Bay and Hubbard Glacier and make stops in the Alaskan favourites of Ketchikan, Skagway and Juneau.

Beginning May 18, 2013, Norwegian Jewel will sail a series of 18 seven-night Sawyer Glacier itineraries from Seattle every Saturday, with stops in Juneau, Ketchikan, Skagway and Victoria (British Columbia).

Pride of America will continue as the only US-flagged vessel sailing among all four of Hawaii’s main islands, offering seven-night inter-island cruises that depart Honolulu every Saturday. Ports of call include: an overnight in Kahului (Maui); Hilo and Kona (on the Big Island); an overnight in Nãwiliwili, (Kauai); and an afternoon cruise along the breathtaking Nãpali Coast.

For a shorter cruise option, Norwegian Sky will continue sailing three and four-night cruises to the Bahamas year-round from Miami through April 25, 2014.

For booking options, be sure to check out this link with the UK's leading cruise agent specialsts, the Cruise Line Ltd.

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