The Glorious Danube - Epilogue

Looking back at a wonderful 11-day voyage along the Danube with Uniworld Boutique River Cruises...

So, we finally had to say farewell to our water-borne 'home' for the best part of the last two weeks. The flight connection from Vienna back to London on the final morning went extremely well and the return home wasn't too severe (it wasn't raining, for a change!).

It was our first full river-cruise, and it couldn't have been any smoother or more memorable. Uniworld (with arrangements by UK tour experts Titan Travel) were ideal hosts and we were hugely impressed by the gracious onboard style, service and cuisine.

Nothing was ever rushed but everything was accomplished with ease, and the overall feeling of travelling in such elegant fashion with a large number of new-found friends was almost overwhelming. 

And, while the River Duchess didn't boast anything overtly flashy in terms of the onboard entertainment, there was always something to enjoy, from good conversation at the 24-hour coffee station to some amazing musical and folkloric shows in the main lounge.

Every meal was memorable and every crew member seemed to go out of their way to make things as seamless and enjoyable as possible. And, if the weather wasn't quite ideal at this time of year (just a bit too much rain, notably in Bulgaria and on our transit of the Iron Gates), it was certainly never cold and unpleasant (as it was back in the UK!).

If there was one mild criticism, perhaps we did spent a bit too long on the coaches on some days as we toured Bulgaria and Croatia, while more time in the surprise Hungarian city of Pecs would probably have been a good idea.

But, overall, the itinerary was extremely well balanced, superbly organised and highly educational, and we never lacked for information, history or just a good place to stop for a coffee!

Of the countries we visited, we probably saw enough of Romania and Bulgaria, but all of Serbia, Croatia, Hungary and Slovakia proved surprisingly beguiling and worthy of a return trip at some stage, while the journey through the Iron Gates gorge (below) was a real visual highlight.

Food-wise, we were wowed by the big Captain's Gala dinners at the start and end of the cruise; by the wonderful al fresco dining experience one evening; and by the superb array of fresh, local produce and signature national dishes offered throughout.

Complimentary wine or beer with lunch and dinner is an excellent selling point and we never had to think about what we might like at any given point, as our needs and wishes always seemed to be met as soon as we thought of them - right down to the wonderful late-night snacks that awaited us when we returned from evening excursions.

And, while we were impressed by every aspect of the service on board, we also need to single out several real stars, who all helped to make the whole cruise go with that perfect combination of personable and efficient:

Captain Michael Hofmann: the German master, now resident in Romania (and owner of his own watermelon farm!), was a huge hit with all concerned, especially for his rare sense of humour and ability to convey the real sense of fun in sailing along the Danube. I have rarely encountered a ship's captain with more natural bonhomie.

Cruise Manager Christine Bremberger: every river-cruise clearly needs a Master Planner to make sure all the shoreside arrangement go off without a hitch, as the importance of good daily excursions is paramount here. Christine must be one of the hardest-working people in the company as she was always either organising, conducting, narrating or explaining what we were seeing and doing at any given point. No request was too small or too complicated for her to handle.

Hotel Manager Jaroslav Veselka: our Slovakian cruise host was a master of quiet organisation, smooth efficiency and genuine friendliness. Once again, no request was ever met with a negative and everything seemed right at his fingertips in terms of ensuring the onboard operation ran like amiable clockwork. Our surprise wedding anniversary celebration was a great case in point, but, again, it was handled with effortless aplomb.

Maitre D' Dimitar and his restaurant team were always spot on with their service and ability to provide a great dining experience, and no meal went by without one highlight or another - although the soups were an amazingly consistent highlight and dessert was always a rare pleasure.

All in all, it is hard to imagine what more the Duchess could have done to make our cruise more enjoyable - except, perhaps, to have halted the space-time continuum, allowing us to stay on board for a lot longer. Perhaps next time...!

Oh, and after our wonderful trip to the Croatian school in Laslovo, I need to do a quick shout-out to my youngest 'follower,' Dalton from Plainfield Elementary School, Illinois, and my big Super Bowl pen-pal from earlier this year. Study hard, Dalton!

This ‘Imperial Capitals of Europe’ voyage can be booked at www.uniworldrivercruises.co.uk, with Titan Travel (in the UK only) at www.titantravel.co.uk or, for more on river-cruising in general, seek out the luxury cruise-agent specialists of The Cruise Line Ltd on this link.

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

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The Glorious Danube - Hungary Pt 3

Continuing our epic cruise from Romania to Austria along the Danube River voyage on the River Duchess of Uniworld...

Budapest - Day 2

One full day in Budapest had been enough for us to fall in love with this ancient city, a city of impressive buildings, monumental architecture, modern tendencies and superbly efficient public transport. We hoped a second day would provide even more depth to our new affaire d'amour.

The system of buses, trolleys, trams and underground system (the oldest in continental Europe) was a joy to watch in action but, with the River Duchess moored in the heart of the city, it was just as easy to navigate on foot, so we did. Across the Chain Bridge and along the river-front to the iconic Parliament Building (above) this 1896 edifice is one of Europe's oldest legislative buildings and is fascinating to behold from any number of perspectives.

The Gothic revival style is crowned by a huge central dome and surrounded by a myriad of supporting spires and turrets, and it sits in imposing Lajos Kossuth Square like the most regal of crown jewels while also boasting the memorial to 1956 uprising martyr Imre Nagy.

From here, we wandered along the streets in the general direction of St Stephen's Basilica, enjoying some window shopping and sudden, sharp views down streets full of impressive 19th century facades. The Basilica itself (above) also dates back to the 19th century, although it took 54 years to build and was finally completed only in 1905 by the third in a series of architects.

It also boasts the amazing relic of St Stephen's Hand, supposedly the mummified right hand of the first king of Hungary, Stephen the First (or St Istvan, 975-1038), which is on view in a special gold casket. For an extra 500 florint per person (less than 2 euros) we were able to take the lift to the observation level around the dome for a spectacular view over Pest and up towards Buda (below).

As it was getting towards lunch, we decided to retrace our steps a little and find a nice cafe to enjoy a proper local taste before heading back to the ship and decided to give the pedestriansed street of Zrinyi Utica a try.

Otkert Budapest was more trendy bar (and nightclub) than typical local hostelry but it had an ideal outside terrace and promising menu, so it served our purposes well. The traditional gulyas (goulash soup) was absolutely excellent - as was the beer and Maximilian Tokaji, the local brandy!

We needed to be back aboard by 2pm for the next part of our Hungarian odyssey - a trip to the famous Csikos horse show on Szentendre Island just a few kilometers up-river.

Here, the Bodor Major horse farm offers an impressive arena for the show, which is part demonstration of the thousand-year-old riding techniques and methods of the Csikos horse-herders and warriors and part riding contest, with the traditionally-garbed 'cowboys' competing in mounted archery, racing and scarf-tearing - using the traditional ringed whip.

The finale was provided by one rider standing astride a team of five fast-galloping stallions, our view of this feat of daring not in the least impaired by the welcome local brandy and warm pastries we were offered on arrival!

To complete another memorable day, our transport back to the Duchess was provided by a series of horse-drawn buggies, which took us around the entire estate - including the impressive stables, where an 8-day-old colt was the star attraction - before dropping us off back at the Danube.

Back on board, the usual fruit-juice-and-cold-towels reception awaited our return and there was just time to freshen up again before another impeccable dinner was on the horizon, prefaced by the now-familiar port talk from Cruise Manager Christine, which promised another day of epic exploration and discovery.

Next up - Slovakia!

This ‘Imperial Capitals of Europe’ voyage can be booked at www.uniworldrivercruises.co.uk, with Titan Travel (in the UK only) at www.titantravel.co.uk or, for more on river-cruising in general, seek out the luxury cruise-agent specialists of The Cruise Line Ltd on this link.

 

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

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The Glorious Danube - Hungary Pt 2

Continuing our epic cruise from Romania to Austria along the Danube River voyage on the River Duchess of Uniworld...

Budapest - Day 1

Having had an intriguing first taste of Hungary, we were up bright and early next day for the sail into Budapest at 7am (above). And it was easily clear to see why they used this city as the backdrop to the opening sequence in the new Mission: Impossible film - it is simply spectacular, in an exotic, east European kind of way.

The banks are lined with classic building, both historic and modern, and one side - the Buda bank of the river, as opposed to the northern Pest side - acts as a natural amphitheatre, providing an amazing panoramic overlook of the whole vista. The stunning views are absolutely everywhere - the Chain Bridge, St Stephen's Basilica, Buda Castle, Fisherman's Bastion, the Freedom Monument and the sensational neo-Gothic Parliament building.

After another excellent buffet breakfast - featuring one of our faves in Eggs Benedict and a Hungarian sausage-and-peppers dish, proving that the chef is able to source some of the best local produce - we were eager to get out and see more, and our morning coach tour provided a fabulous overview.

Budapest is often dubbed 'The Paris of the East' and it is easy to see why, with broad avenues, classic 19th century architecture (where it has survived the ravages of WWII and the communist regime) and epic monuments, from Heroes Square and Valdahunyad Castle in City Park to the picturesque Dohany Square Synagogue (built from 1854-89 and the largest in Europe) and the vast overlook of Matthias Church.

Our tour took us through all this and more, with stops to fully explore Heroes Square (dedicated in 1900 to all those who gave their lives for the country's independence) and the Castle District, complete with the cathedral-like Matthias Church, dating back to the 14th century, and the immense terrace of the Fisherman's Bastion (below), which looks for all the world like Minas Tirith in Lord of the Rings(!), both of which have been heavily rebuilt since the War.

Then it was back to River Duchess for the now-familiar buffet lunch. Today's specialities included Porkolt, or a traditional beef goulash, and a heavenly carrot and ginger soup, as well as the Sandwich of the Day (a Croque Monsieur) and Somlai Galuska for dessert (a Hungarian raspberry roll), plus the usual appetising array of European cheeses and a glass of Gruner Veltiner to make everything go down smoothly!.

That afternoon we were free to explore under our steam, and explore we did. First stop was the Great Market Hall (below) built in 1896 and now a wonderful mix of local produce and tourist bric-a-brac, from the fine local lace and pottery to typical beer steins and 'magic boxes.'

The fresh produce in this vast 3-level Victorian labyrinth was worth going in for on its own, with a mouth-watering array of peppers, spices, sausages and salamis, pastries, cheeses, fresh fish, fruit and vegetables, plus stalls selling fresh-cooked meals and other local delicacies.

Next up was a chance to wander along the city's main shopping precinct, Vaci Street, full of regular tourist traps, boutiques, antique shops and modern designer fare, as well as being the heart of medieval Budapest and full of fascinating facades and other period architecture.

Several squares, statues, fountains and the 18th century Church of St Michael add to the charm of the area, and we finished our afternoon tour in style with coffee and pastries at Cafe Gerbeaud, founded in 1858 and still a top coffee house to this day (albeit a touch expensive at 25 euros for two drinks and a chocolate crepe-and-ice-cream thingy!).

Happy that we'd seen a good portion of the city it was time to head back for dinner, and then the big optional tour of our city visit, the Hungarian State Folk Ensemble. To say this was a major surprise would be a major understatement. We were treated to front row seats for a 90-minute performance of amazing music and dance, all in Hungarian folk costumed style, with the male dancers in particular providing a stunning and well-drilled line-up of leaping, twirling and boot-slapping splendour.

We left goggle-eyed, but still had time for a night tour of the city, including the splendid Basilica, Heroes Square (below) and fabulous overlook of The Citadel, with both parts of the city spread out in glittering panorama either side of the glorious Danube.

We had thought this would be one of the highlights of the whole cruise, but we were wrong. It was WAY better than that.

Next - Day 2 in the Paris of the East.

This ‘Imperial Capitals of Europe’ voyage can be booked at www.uniworldrivercruises.co.uk, with Titan Travel (in the UK only) at www.titantravel.co.uk or, for more on river-cruising in general, seek out the luxury cruise-agent specialists of The Cruise Line Ltd on this link.

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

If you haven't already, subscribe to the World of Cruising magazine today.

The Glorious Danube - Hungary

(With apologies for the slow upload of this episode!)

Continuing our epic Danube River voyage – the Imperial Capitals of Europe – on the River Duchess of Uniworld from Romania to Austria...

Hungary, Part 1

We are now (sadly) past the half-way point of our cruise, having glided through Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia and Croatia, the very heart of the Balkans, and it is time to move from east to central Europe.

Hungary was our next stop, and we had three contrasting days in store. Our first port of call in Magyar territory was Mohacs (above), a seemingly typical riverside town boasting its own medieval history and traditions – notably the weird and wonderful Buso Festival each March, which celebrates the end of the Lent season in suitably wild, costumed fashion (if you can imagine hordes of sheepskin-festooned, masked and alcohol-fueled men rushing about wielding sticks in comical fashion!).

Our enthusiastic guide for a morning stroll through the town gave us the full Buso story while we visited the high street, main church and town hall in leisurely succession before returning to the Duchess under our own guidance (via a shop or two!).

After another excellent buffet lunch (breakfast and lunch are always served buffet-style, with several specialities each day), including a tempting array of Hungarian dishes, it was time to board our next chariot (in the form of yet another comfortable coach) and head off into the hinterland, destination Villanyi.

After the relatively rural, near-subsistence levels we saw in much of Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia and Croatia, there was a definite difference in the air of wealth and prosperity in the Hungarian landscape, with the likes of Burger King and British stores Tesco, Spar and even Marks & Spencer all to be seen – signs of a healthy middle class indeed!

Our first stopping point was the village of Villanyi in the heart of Hungary’s famous wine region, seeded with German grapes more than 300 years ago and still thriving today. It is also the very opposite of the big, mass-produced wineries you see in much of Germany, France, California and even Australia – individual family-owned holdings carved out of the hillside and handed down from generation to generation.

The Borozo winery (above) was a classic example, a business that had been in the family for almost 300 years and was still, largely, a husband-and-wife concern. Their own wine cellar – one of several dozen arranged in neat rows along the hillside – was not so much an underground facility as the middle tier of a three-layer series of tunnels bored directly into the side of the hill, with the actual vineyards on top.

We entered via a narrow frontage that looked more like a row of garages but quickly discovered this unprepossessing exterior led into a cellar-cool brick-lined tunnel that took us down and under the hill. Full of barrels and thousands of bottles already laid down, our hosts had lined up three wines and various snacks all set out for tasting – a rosé and two reds, including a surprisingly vibrant and tasty Cabernet.

We sampled the flavourful trio as our Hungarian host relayed a series of tasting notes via our guide/interpreter. The tour finished by going up a level into their little café/wine bar, with the inevitable opportunity to buy some of their produce. But, at just €11 for an excellent Cab, we certainly weren’t short-changed.

Back on the coach, the gloomy weather finally relented as we reached the outskirts of Pecs, Hungary’s fourth-largest city and another major surprise. Here was a wonderful mix of new and old, a typical medieval settlement boasting part of the original city walls and an amazing array of 17^th, 18^th and 19^th century churches, mansions and other buildings, all boasting an eye-catching baroque and neo-Gothic style.

Our tour guide offered a non-stop stream of commentary of Pecs’ long history and introduced us to two highly-regarded museums, including one for the famous local porcelain that now commands a serious price in the big-name stores of Europe.

Not wishing to miss our own exploration of this surprising city, we opted to miss the museums in favour of more time to wander – and what a wander it proved to be.

As well as more – and ever ingenious – fountains than you could shake a Hungarian stick at, the central square (above) was a real wow moment as we rounded a corner to discover this huge open space lined on three sides by more of the classic period architecture and dominated on the upper side by a church-turned-mosque-turned-reconverted-church, testimony to the great push and shove of the Ottoman age, when the powerful Turkish empire covered half of Europe before being fought to a standstill by the Habsburgs and then gradually evicted.

Knowing nothing about Pecs in advance (and precious little about the Ottoman empire either, to be honest), it proved a fascinating couple of hours as we meandered along the mazy streets and admired this overwhelming collection of period architecture (along with a delicious gelato!).

The new face of the city could be seen in a modern indoor shopping centre, along with brands like H&M, C&A and Marks and Spencer, and it was clear Hungary itself is integrating itself into the contemporary European scene much faster than its eastern neighbours.

All too soon, it was time to re-board our coach to return to the ship at Fajsz, with the prospect of Budepest the next day, but our first impressions of Hungary are pretty positive...

This ‘Imperial Capitals of Europe’ voyage can be booked at www.uniworldrivercruises.co.uk, with Titan Travel (in the UK only) at www.titantravel.co.uk or, for more on river-cruising in general, seek out the luxury cruise-agent specialists of The Cruise Line Ltd on this link.

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

If you haven't already, subscribe to the World of Cruising magazine today.