Expert Line-Up For American Cruise Lines

The educational onboard aspect of cruises is becoming more and more noticeable these days, and it is no surprise to see the line-up of guest speakers being highly touted by many lines.

The move to provide that element is most noticeable on the small-ship lines, though, and it is really illuminating to see this being taken to increasingly high levels.

With that in kind, we were really impressed to see the latest press release from American Cruise Lines, which adds another layer to their thoughtful river-cruise style.

Their carefully selected array of experts offers a series of informal lectures, open discussions and activities that bring alive the local history, nature and culture. These experts also lead shore excursions while in port, providing even more insight into the destinations they visit.

And foremost among these is the Riverlorian, a knowledgeable person who shares the rich history and folklore of America's rivers with passengers. It is a notable feature of Mississippi cruises in particular (check out our special blog series in October 2012 on board ACL's Queen of the Mississippi).

With that in mind, ACL have unveiled their latest line-up of onboard experts as follows:

	Sam Ladley Sam is a New England maritime historian who has been travelling with ACL for many years, giving enthusiastic presentations on themes such as colonial settlement, Native Americans, whaling history, coastal and island communities, and shipbuilding. His expertise in America's nautical and colonial past guarantee a deeper appreciation for the regions he travels.
	Charles Petrocci Charles has travelled and worked in more than 35 countries and written over 900 articles and reports for universities, national and regional publications. He currently serves as a maritime cultural heritage researcher and consultant for numerous universities, museums and non-profit organisations. His lectures focus on coastal maritime history, fisheries, and the heritage of the Atlantic Coast.
	Karen "Toots" Maloy Toots is an expert river historian with a distinguished history on America's rivers. A perennial passenger favourite, "Toots" brings the history and culture of America's great rivers to life with her wealth of knowledge.
	Todd Weber Todd Weber brings tales of the patriots, fur traders, Indians and explorers of America alive through his period clothing and colourful presentation. This highly celebrated, river-running historian shares his appreciation for the stamina, ingenuity and character that existed in those who helped shape the history of America on the Columbia River.

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The Mississippi - With Free Shore Excursions

Regular readers will know we featured a wonderful Mississippi River cruise earlier this year, sailing on the brand new Queen of the Mississippi of American Cruise Lines (it was featured in our Spring edition and extensively here on Time Spent At Sea in one of our signature day-by-day blogs).

Well, American Cruise Lines have just announced a great incentive to cruise the mighty Mississippi with them in 2014 - free shore excursions. Reserve a stateroom for ANY of their voyages on Ol' Man River next year by December 25, and cruisers will receive at least one free excursion for each port of call.

ACL's Mississippi cruises for 2014 include seven different itineraries, New Orleans to Memphis; St Louis to St Paul; Memphis to St Louis; Nashville to St Louis; St Louis to Cincinnati; Memphis to Nashville; and New Orleans round-trip.

The free excursions include some of the following:

Adubon Museum: Discover the life of John James Audubon during a guided tour of the Audubon Museum featuring his artwork and personal memorabilia framed within a timeline of world events.

Natchez City Tour: On a guided tour of Natchez, enjoy the influences and traditions of Native American, European, Southern, and African American cultures throughout the Natchez historic district.

Mark Twain Home Tour: Visit Mark Twain's boyhood home and museum, followed by a narrated trolley tour of Hannibal showcasing many of the locations that inspired his remarkable works. 

More info: call (in the US) 1800 460 4518 or visit www,americancruiselines.com.

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Mississippi Cruise - Epilogue

Concluding our recent - and hugely enjoyably - cruise along the Mississippi with American Cruise Lines on their new Queen of the Mississippi riverboat...

Now we're home again, it's good to look back on the 7-day trip and pick out some of our highlights from the journey, which is certainly an extremely different experience from anything else we've done cruise-wise.

Sailing down the sluggish river to the cheerful sound of the calliope is definitely one of those unique moments, while the sheer camaraderie and conviviality of the whole voyage really stands out.

The slow-paced nature of the journey was highlighted by a series of low-key, if quite charming, ports of call. Alton, Cape Girardeau and Paducah were all well worth a day's visit, but Columbus and New Madrid could easily have been combined, or missed out altogether, as they were barely a two-hour diversion.

On board, the new Queen of the Mississippi is absolutely charming, a modern reinterpretation on the classic river steamers of the past. Cabin space is excellent and the public rooms all a joy to spend time if, if lacking in the one large entertainment Saloon that boats of the past boasted.

The food was unfailingly excellent; a tad below five star but always appetising and well-presented and features like the soups and sandwiches were real stand-outs. The offering of half-portions at both lunch and dinner was also appreciated, as it's easy to over-eat in these slow, sedentary situations. The small on-deck exercise area did provide a bit of relief in this aspect, though!

The provision of free tea, coffee and snack stations in the public rooms was very notable and another highly pleasant feature. Certainly no-one went hungry and the ability to get a good-quality espresso or latte whenever required was much appreciated in these days of some cruise lines charging for small-scale incidentals (as was the free wi-fi throughout the vessel).

Service was unfailingly friendly and efficient, if lacking in a little polish with their lunch and dinner service. The young American staff are all bright and personable, but a little schooling on the proper way to serve formal meals (and not taking away unfinished plates!) would be a good idea.

The voyage was certainly a journey through small-time America, showcased at either end by the cities of St Louis and Memphis, and benefitting hugely from finishing in the Tennessee music setting. The shore excursions were all well thought out and well priced (from just $15-$65) and the provision of free shuttles at many points was definitely welcome.

And the presence of the onboard 'Riverlorian' was a master-stroke in terms of providing the necessary educational and informational content of the cruise, making the journey one of gentle learning and discovery in truly delightful surroundings.

Having never sailed with American Cruise Lines before, it was an absolute pleasure being in their company and, with so many other voyages around the country on offer - notably to Alaska and along the Snake and Columbia Rivers in the north-west - there is certainly much more to explore in future.

And I think we may well do that...

Simon Veness

 

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Along The Mississippi - Part 8

Concluding our magical journey along the Mississippi on the new Queen of America of American Cruise Lines. Final stop, Memphis...

It isn't quite our final morning on the river but we are due to sail into our final port of call at 11am today, Memphis, Tennessee, the end of our 414-mile journey from St Louis, which has been so captivating and different almost every mile of the way.

After the usual cheery breakfast in the Dining Salon, Riverlorian Jim provides an outline view of The River City and Memphis itself hoves into sight by 10am on a glorious autumn morning. Sadly, with the river level rather low, we have to moor upstream at Mud Island rather than in the heart of the city itself, so it's not quite walkable distance. But, ACL have laid on buses to take everyone into the downtown area, and we take advantage of the 15-minute ride to get our first view of the home of Elvis and BB King.

Happily, the bus drops everyone off at the main entrance to Beale St, the heart of Memphis' music district, and we are immediately wowed by the sense of history and sheer musical style of the place. Sadly, we don't have time to try any of the cafe's - and the Memphis ribs - but we do spend some time looking through the great music shops and the famous Schwab's general store, as well as a few other stores.

We get several great recommendations for live music and make a promise to return here when we have a LOT more time to spare. Just the sounds coming from the Memphis Music store are enough to whet our musical appetites and this is clearly THE place to be in the evening.

For now, we have an afternoon city tour and trip to Graceland booked, so we need to catch the bus back to the Queen at mid-day. It is our final lunch on board, but a memorable one, with a main choice of Herb Marinated Chicken Caesar Salad or a Grilled Reuben Sandwich, both of which hit the spot for us. Then it's off to Elvisville...

We weren't quite sure what we'd make of the home of one of the world's most iconic musicians. Neither of us have ever been Elvis fans and, apart from knowing something of his story, we were relatively ignorant of his Memphis roots. Which is probably why Graceland (the mansion itself, rather than the rather tacky array of attractions and gift shops around it) was such a compelling visit.

We really did gain a useful perspective on the young musician's life and, while it completely glossed over his later years, it was a compelling, as well as quite haunting, perspective. We had around two hours of the three-hour tour here but we could have done with at least another half-hour to see a bit more. Needless to say, true Elvis fans will probably need all day!

Back aboard, it was time for one last Cocktail Hour with our favourite staff, Elizabeth and Theo, pouring the drinks, and then off to dinner with a table-full of our favourite companions from the week. Tonight's speciality was Surf & Turf, with beef tenderloin and lobster tail, and it again lived up to the fairly high standards we'd come to expect of the Galley (along with another great soup course).

Happily, The Mills Brothers (or the new version, at least) were back for another encore performance in the Magnolia Lounge, and this seemed to provide an extremely fitting conclusion to the week - a touch of nostalgia and touch in fairly gentle fashion.      

Tomorrow morning we just have time for breakfast, then it's off to the airport at 8.30am for the flight home, but we will be taking some great memories with us, and a real thirst to see more of this kind of river-cruising in future.

Next up - Mississippi epilogue. 

 

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Along the Mississippi - Pt 7

Continuing our blissful journey along Old Man River on the new Queen of the Mississippi of American Cruise Lines. Day 6, New Madrid, Missouri...

All was quiet this morning as we awoke to another day on the Mississippi. We should have been underway since 6am, en route to our next destination, but a quick look out of our balcony revealed thick fog on the river. This would delay our departure from our mooring in Columbus, so breakfast took on an even more leisurely air than usual (highlighted by the daily poached egg special, today's being Eggs Benedict), followed by the second part of the Journey Through Time lecture from Riverlorian, Jim.

After the obligatory fresh-baked cookies in the Sky Lounge, there was also a Galley Tour with Chef Eric, which offered a great look at where all our wonderful meals were concocted, and we marvelled at how Eric's team produced so much in such a relatively small space.

Happily, the fog did clear soon enough for us to head back down-river again and, before long, we were in sight of New Madrid, tucked up behind a high levee. Once again, this is not a big town (although its 1,500 population handily out-numbers the 160 back at Columbus!).

It does boast a charming riverfront walk and this afternoon's tour is strictly a walking one with a local guide, hence the small-scale nature of the place is fairly evident.

After another excellent lunch (highlights being a gorgeous Harvest Pumpkin Soup - the latest in a long line of spectacular soups served up by the galley - a Cobb Salad and a Warm Stuffed Apple for dessert) it was time to gather for our shore excursion. 

There was a small bus for those who really couldn't make the walk but the majority did opt for the (gentle) stroll along the levee and into town, taking in the handful of historic pointers along the way, which included the 19th century Hart-Stepp House (now an art gallery) and a Boardwalk overlook of the river that showed various flood levels over the years (happily, none higher than the levee).

A stop at the small Historical Museum provided the necessary history overview of the town, once again with some major Civil War connotations, while a visit to the Higgerson School (below) featured an enchanting talk from a descendant of the school's founders, a lady who had been both student and teacher in this building (which was built in the Higgerson community in 1930 and moved to New Madrid in 1998 after the community died out). A visit to the Visitor Center and gift shop, and some shopping at the art gallery concluded a laid-back visit in glorious sunshine.

With such a low-key afternoon, there was still time to enjoy afternoon tea in the Sky Lounge and a stroll on deck, listening to the enchanting sound of the ship's Calliope.

Once again, Cocktail Hour at 5.30pm led nicely to the evening's main meal, with Chicken Bordelaise, Potato Encrusted Striped Bass and Chicken & Shrimp Jambalaya all on the menu. The Bourbon Pecan Pie was every bit as good as it sounds and, not for the first time, to waddled off to the Magnolia Lounge for the evening entertainment.

There was a real sense of anticipation about the highlight here, too, as this was billed as the first of two successive appearances by The Mills Brothers. Now, this may seem a trifle odd for those old enough to remember the Brothers in their pomp (basically 1928-82) but this jazz/pop/vocal quartet from yesteryear have been revived by John Mills III (son of Donald Mills, one of the original quartet) and Elmer Hopper of The Platters.

With a three-piece backing band from Huntsville Alabama, led by pianist extraordinaire Peter Harrison, the 'new' Mills Brothers proceeded to thrill the audience with a series of classic hits from their full repertoire, including 'You're nobody til somebody loves you, 'Yellow Bird,' 'Paper Doll,' 'Lazy River' and a version of the Platters' 'Only You.'

It was fascinating to hear such genuine 'goldie oldie' classics given a modern revival and, with the benefit of the band doing their best Count Basie impression, it proved to be a thoroughly engaging evening. John Mills' own song, 'Still...There's You', was an absolute show-stopper and a fitting climax to another great day on the Mississippi. 

Proof positive that a trip along the 'Lazy River' with American Cruise Lines really can be both surprising and enchanting.

Next up - the big finale, Memphis

 

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Along The Mississippi - Part 6

Continuing our journey on the Mississippi aboard the new Queen of the Mississippi of American Cruise Lines from St Louis to Memphis… 

We stayed anchored in Paducah almost overnight and it quickly became clear our riverboat was as much an attraction for the locals as the town was for us. A steady stream of cars drove by throughout the evening, cruising by as slowly as possible so as not to get a ticket for parking!

The Queen of the Mississippi may be a familiar-looking vessel in historical terms, but it is a good few years since the cruise-going traffic was a regular visitor hereabouts, hence it is a welcome sight once again, as well as being a great travel vehicle for those on board.

We eventually sailed at 4am which meant we were slowly returning along the Ohio River as we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and the latest in a series of fascinating talks from our Riverlorian Jim, taking A Journey Through Time in the story of the mighty Mississippi.

As Jim was finishing up his talk, it became clear we were slowly navigating our way into our next port of call. Now, we had come across some fairly small stops on the river in the course of the first few days, but nothing quite prepared us for the view when we pulled into Columbus, Kentucky.  

Our first reaction was 'Have we stopped short of the town?' Our second reaction was 'OK, where IS it?' And our third reaction was 'Huh??'

In truth, there was a town (or village) of Columbus, but it was situated at a safe height from the river, up a small hill and completely out of sight of our boat. We were told the local population numbered all of 160, so we weren't expecting anything grand, and Susan's hope of a little morning shopping expedition was completely torpedoed.

Our ship excursion, to the Columbus-Belmont State Park & Museum (a Trail of Tears and Civil War National heritage Site) wasn't scheduled until after lunch, so we postponed any pre-meal wanderings in favour of coffee in the welcoming Sky Lounge and then the usual mid-day meal at 12.30.

A series of three 12-seater buses was there on the dot of 2pm ready to take us to the State Park, which turned out to be a small but beautifully wooded park on a large bluff overlooking the river (and dubbed the Gibraltar of the West). It consisted of an old mansion house converted into the museum, a small gift shop and, er, that's about it. But the setting was stunning and the history was compelling - this was a key Civil War site in the battle for control of the rivers - and they provided several interpreters in period costume, while, with the trees in full fall foliage, the overall look of the place was extremely eye-catching.

Back on board, we all agreed that Columbus probably wasn't the most enticing of our ports of call, and we wouldn't be in a hurry to return but, once again, we had learned more about the river and the Civil War than we expected, and, coming from Florida where the change to autumn consists merely of a change in temperature from 90F to 80F, it was a welcome change of scenery.

After the obligatory Cocktail Hour - this had really become a key social event by now, full of convivial bonhomie - and another excellent dinner, highlighted by a tasty French Onion Soup and a main course of Steel Head Trout, we were able to kick back in the Magnolia Lounge with the docu-drama 'Trail of Tears: The Cherokee Legacy,' and put another nail in the coffin of President Andrew Jackson and his fellow land-thieves. Sad and tragic and all too true.

Up next - New Madrid, Missouri.

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Along the Mississippi - Part 5

Continuing our journey on the Mississippi aboard the new Queen of the Mississippi of American Cruise Lines from St Louis to Memphis…

It was pretty clear by Day 4 that our journey along the waterways of the mighty Mississippi was very much one of small-town America, taking in the kind of places that might have been significant stopping points for Mark Twain but which the world has largely by-passed ever since.

Alton and Cape Giradeau were certainly charming enough, but their 19th century roots were still clearly showing. They offered a fascinating, if slightly jaded, view of their waterside history, yet they were struggling to remain relevant in a 21st century world that has little time for that sedentary pace.

And then we came to Paducah. Like Cape Girardeau, this key river town is sealed off behind an impressive river wall, but there the similarity ended, as this Kentucky town offers much more in the way of modern sensibilities, from the award-winning National Quilt Museum and state-of-the-art concert venue to the sprinkling of vibrant art galleries and boutiques, while remaining in touch with its heritage via the Tilghman House & Civil War Museum, the River Heritage Museum and the surprising Railroad Museum.

Although two tours were offered, at a modest $35 and $15 per person, we decided to strike out on our own this time as everything was on a very walkable scale, yet still offered plenty to see and do given a full day in town. 

We learned Paducah's Civil War history with John, an excellent docent at the Tilghman House (former home of the railroad tycoon who became a fine Confederate officer before his death, along with his son, at the Battle of Champion Hill, near Vicksburg); we soaked up the 20th century railroad history and a truly wonderful train simulator experience, where we both got to sit in a half-size Amtrak engine mock-up complete with genuine controls, sounds, 3-D screen and other special effects; and we dived into the full River Heritage, learning how the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers have shaped the region for centuries (while also trying our hand at a neat riverboat simulator).

We browsed a dozen or more shops, all with unique, individual styles and stopped for  lunch at Kirchhoff's Deli, where fresh sandwiches and salads made for a tempting array and the neighbouring Etcetera Coffeehouse served a delicious Spanish Latte. There were at least half a dozen other alluring alternatives and, while the weather wasn't exactly balmy, the day here passed in total enjoyment.

Was it action-packed and dazzling? No. Was it busy and bustling? No. Was it beguiling and thoughtful? Absolutely. And we'd go back in a heartbeat, just because - like almost everywhere else - they had some of the friendliest people we've met, and the town had some genuine fascinations, both period and modern.

Back on board, dinner that night featured superb Sweet Corn Chowder, Gulf Swordfish and Blueberry Cobbler that set the seal on a great day. To top it off, local country and bluegrass musician Alonzo Pennington entertained one and all in the Magnolia Lounge and we were truly in the heart of the Mississippi (OK, the Ohio River) as we signed off for the day.

Up next - Columbus, Kentucky.

PS: Like Cape Giradeau, Paducah boasted a superb array of murals along their riverwall, and it's worth adding a few pics of that, as, if anything, they were even more striking than their Missouri neighbour.

 

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Mississippi Journey, Part 4

Continuing our journey on the Mississippi aboard the new Queen of the Mississippi of American Cruise Lines from St Louis to Memphis…

After our morning tour of Alton, Illinois, we are heading back down the river this afternoon, with the sun slowly giving way to a creeping overcast. By early evening we are passing St Louis again and get another look at the city’s smart riverfront, highlighted by the Arch that affords a high-level overview of the area.

As night falls, we are quickly picking up the rhythm of the river, a slow, steady, muddy-brown flow in the ultimate direction of New Orleans and the Gulf of Mexico, part of the world’s second-largest drainage basin (after the Amazon) and the kind of unchanged scene that would have greeted Mark Twain ( or Samuel Clemens, as he was then known) during his riverboat pilot days of the 19^th century.

The majority of rivercraft (basically, everything apart from ourselves) would have looked very different to Twain, but the riverbanks are largely untouched for miles in each direction, with only the occasional industrial plant – providing the loading and unloading stations for the many barges that ply the river, pushed by the flat-fronted towboats that chug along at around 4mph – to break up the uber-rural scene.

We are not destined to reach our next port of call, Cape Girardeau, Missouri, until the early hours, so we take (another!) leisurely set dinner in the 150-seat dining room and then enjoy an evening’s talk from our Riverlorian, Jim Williams (the onboard river expert and naturalist).

It is typical of the kind of relaxed, educational style we can expect each evening and serves to underline the ‘Mississippi vibe’ that has been quickly established aboard. There is no formality aboard, with a casual dress code and ambience – jackets and ties are not required.

Each meal with our fellow passengers is an exercise in gentle, convivial conversation. With the vast majority in the 60-plus age group (and many 70 or older), this is an extremely well-travelled group, and much of the enjoyment is derived from swapping travel stories and other highly social discourse. The daily Cocktail Hour at 5.30pm is an inspired choice (all drinks are free, too), and leads seamlessly to an amiable meal, in the company of dinner companions you may just have met.

This is certainly not the all-action, multi-activity, high-tech cruise of the big ships, and it is all the better for it.

Next morning, Cape Girardeau is revealed as typical small-town America, lurking behind a solid levee wall that serves to keep the river’s more excessive moments at bay. The wall is decorated with a series of impressive paintings and it makes for an impressive arrival tableau.

The town itself features a striking 19^th century Catholic church – one of only a handful of English Gothic Revival style churches left in the US – and a modern college campus that sports the Crisp Museum, where the history of this stretch of the river was evocatively laid out. A short film presentation provided the essential story of east Missouri and the effects of the Civil War hereabouts, with the importance of the river offering a narrative thread that would run through the whole cruise.

After the two-hour bus tour, with its two stops, we were free to wander the downtown for an hour. After yesterday’s “Closed” signs in Alton, we were hoping for something more inviting, shopping-wise, today. But, apart from one antique store and a restaurant, everything here proudly proclaimed it was open ‘Tuesday-Saturday.’ Not a lot of good on a Monday, then.

By early afternoon, we were back on the river, heading for Paducah, Kentucky. This required a left turn into the Ohio River, one of the Mississippi’s two main tributaries (along with the Missouri) but the river scenery stayed the same, slow, steady rural passage of the previous day.

The afternoon offered the opportunity to tune in to the resident TV channel showing the second part National Geographic’s excellent “Mississippi River Quest” programme or indulge in Afternoon Tea in the Sky Lounge.

Dinner is followed by our first live musical entertainment of the trip, with award-winning banjo player Dan Knowles and his band, a wonderfully lively five-piece, who turned their hand to country, bluegrass and other folksy toe-tappers. It’s a great slice of musical Americana and sets us up nicely for what is promised to be one of the port highlights of the week.

Up next – Paducah, Kentucky.

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Mississippi River Cruise - Pt 3

Continuing our journey along the Mississippi aboard the new Queen of the Mississippi of American Cruise Lines from St Louis to Memphis…

 

It is quickly very obvious there is a real daily routine about our week’s cruise on this smart 150-passenger paddle-steamer. Everything starts with breakfast from 7.30-9am (or tea, coffee and pastries for early risers in the Sky Lounge for early risers).

 

Then it is time for our Cruise Director Nikki and Riverlorian Jim to give us a quick talk on the day’s events and some history about the River. At 10am there are fresh cookies to be enjoyed in the Sky Lounge (the regular availability of free snacks and drinks about the boat is quite notable) and lunch is served at 12.30pm.

 

If we’re in port, it is off on an excursion (or exploring under your own steam); if not, the morning lecture is saved for the afternoon, accompanied by afternoon tea at 3.30pm, a free cocktail hour at 5.30 and then dinner from 6.30-8pm.

 

Live musical entertainment is provided after dinner in the main Magnolia Lounge, accompanied by popcorn and, a bit later, by ice cream sundaes (because, apparently, we haven’t eaten enough during the day!).

Our first port of call after leaving St Louis, Missouri, is the town of Alton in Illinois (about 30 miles upriver). We arrive in the evening and it is possible to visit the riverside Casino for those who like a flutter. Instead, we stay aboard to enjoy a memorable dinner and get an early night ready for a 9am excursion.

 

Alton is a major stop on the former Underground Railroad that helped escaping slaves reach the northern states and, ultimately, the freedom of Canada, and our coach tour of the town is ostensibly to learn all about this history, although it actually turns out to be more of a town tour than Underground Railroad lesson.

 

We have slightly less than an hour after the tour finishes to see some of Alton on foot, as our steamboat sails again at mid-day, destined for Cape Girardeau, Missouri. Sadly, as it is a Sunday, most of Alton is closed, hence it takes about 15 minutes to complete a tour of the immediate downtown area.

It is a cute town, with some original 19th century brick-built streets and an impressive memorial to the owner of the local newspaper, a slavery abolitionist who was murdered back in the 1830s. More importantly, it was here that a certain lawyer by the name of Abraham Lincoln made a name for himself a few years later, both for his legal work but also for a series of public debates with a renowned pro-slavery politician.

 

The special statues and signage dedicated to the debates are well worth seeing, and, after a few photos and a quick look around the Casino (complete with its billion slot machines), it is time to be back aboard.

 

Next up – Cape Girardeau.

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Mississippi River Cruise, Pt 2

We’re sailing the Mississippi aboard the brand new Queen of the Mississippi of American Cruise Lines. Follow along with us as we go from St Louis to Memphis…

After finding our feet aboard this modern interpretation of a classic 19th century paddle-steamer, our first meal comes as a pleasant surprise.

There is just the one dining room aboard and it is open seating from 12.30pm for lunch and 6.30-7.30pm for dinner. And, interestingly, you get to pre-select your meals in advance (basically, so the galley doesn’t over-cater). At breakfast each day, every guest receives a form to fill in for their lunch and dinner choice from an either/or choice for starter and main course at lunch, and, in the evening, a choice of two starters (usually a soup or salad) and three main course options.

Our first lunch is impressive, with a relatively simple choice (soup or salad; sandwich or main-course salad) and lots of flavour. We are also told that if we don’t see something on the menu we like, they will be happy to accommodate most requests. In fact, given a little notice, the galley can come up with a wide variety of alternatives, including vegetarian, low sodium and kosher.

After lunch, our ship sails, leaving St Louis behind and sailing upriver to Alton in Illinois. Surprisingly, we go through two sets of locks and a canal that by-passes a rocky section of the Mississippi proper. It seems surprising to us this far down the river but our resident ‘Riverlorian’ – the onboard lecturer on all things Mississippian – tells us it is a relatively modern alteration that really helps the smooth flow of river traffic.

More importantly, it gives us chance to explore our home for the next 7 days, this new ship that may seem a bit small by the standards of past river-cruisers (which could be almost 400ft long and carry 400-plus, as opposed to our 150) but is certainly beautifully out-fitted and immensely comfortable.

This Queen is certainly more modest in terms of dimensions and amenities. In addition to the dining room, there are three separate lounges, including the main Magnolia Lounge, which is used for the daily lectures and evening entertainment, the Deck 4 conservatory Sky Lounge (below),with its outdoor patio and terrace, and the clubby Paddle Wheel Lounge.

Deck 5 is largely open air, with a large covering, with the addition of a small putting green and plenty of chairs and rocking chairs in which to sit and watch the riverbanks glide slowly by.

Each of the 4 main interior decks also have a small lounge/card/room/library type set-up, providing a nice small-scale retreat for those who just like a quiet place to read or chat.

This is certainly not the all-action, all-feature type ships we see on ocean-going routes and even some bigger river-cruise vessels, but, with a clientele that is largely 60-plus, well-travelled and keen more on listening than doing, it is superbly well-equipped for the job.

The staff aboard are all young, keen and fresh-faced, as well as immensely friendly. This isn’t the white-glove, six-star service of a Silversea, Seabourn or even a Uniworld, but they make up for it with a personable style that is enthusiastic and accommodating, very eager to please and very familiar with their river-going vessel.

The weather isn’t great so far – around 50F and overcast – but every stateroom has its own climate control system that works extremely well and the overall effect is of great travelling style.

Next – Our first stop, Alton, Illinois.

 

 

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Queen of the Mississippi, Part One

We’re sailing the Mississippi aboard the brand new Queen of the Mississippi of American Cruise Lines. Follow along with us as we go from St Louis to Memphis…

It’s embarkation day on Queen of the Mississippi and it is immediately clear this is unlike any cruise we have done before. Our taxi drops us dockside along this recreated stern-wheel paddle-steamer and there is no photographer or welcoming committee. In fact, there is no embarkation fuss of any kind.

Assistant cruise director Theo walks up the short pathway to greet us and check us off on his clipboard, then we just follow him along the traditional bow gangplank and we’re all aboard. It’s that simple.

He shows us to our cabin on Deck 4 and, in no time at all, we’re settled into our balcony cabin with masses of room for a seven-day voyage. Unlike most river-cruise ships, where cabins tend to be stylish but functional, with only minimal room and a balcony that is usually a token effort, this sports genuine big-ship verandah style, with the cabin itself boasting 300sq ft of space, with a balcony to match.

There is ample closet and drawer space (although a closet door would be nice), a generous-sized bathroom with a huge shower (by most ship standards) and, while it wouldn’t live up to a genuine deluxe rating, there are some classy touches, like the individual Keurig coffee-maker, Judith Jackson Spa bathroom products and free wi-fi.

A quick tour of the ship (and, at just 295ft long over five decks, three of which are mainly accommodation, it IS a quick tour!), reveals some sumptuous public rooms and lounges, the one main dining room and a generous helping of coffee-making facilities, along with free fruit, snacks and soft drinks, throughout the vessel.

This immediately looks like a cosy and comfortable way to travel for at least a week (while we find some on board who have signed up for the full three-week journey from Minneapolis to New Orleans), and the friendliness of the crew is evident everywhere with smiling faces and inquries of “Can I help?”

No, we don’t need any help to start with. This is an extremely promising first impression, and we have seriously high hopes of a memorable seven days travelling in the 19^th century wake of Mark Twain, so you’ll have to excuse us while we unpack and get properly settled, especially as it will soon be time for lunch…! 

 

NB: For bookings in the UK, call 0808 101 2713; in the US, call 1800 460 4518.

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Follow Us On The Mississippi!

It's time for another 'live' cruise with World of Cruising this month as we head out for a unique voyage along the mighty Mississippi on the brand new Queen of the Mississippi of American Cruise Lines.

Our voyage goes from St Louis to Memphis for a look at the heart of America's greatest river, taking in parts of Missouri, Illinois, Kentucky and Tennessee. This route is part of the great paddlesteamer era of the 19th century and offers a genuine view of some essential American heritage, from Native American history to the travels of Lewis and Clark and some of the essential Civil War battles.

Along the way, we will discover the likes of America's "most haunted city" (Alton, Illinois), a former French trading post (Cape Girardeau, Missouri), the Chicasaw village site of Paducah (Kentucky), the Civil War port of Columbus (Kentucky), the town that made history as the epicenter of the most powerful earthquake to hit the US (New Madrid, Missouri), the bustling historic town of Tunica (Missouri) and finally the City of Elvis, Memphis itself.

It promises to be a fascinating look at small-town America and the charms of a different age, when Mark Twain travelled the river and the world was a much slower, gentler place.

And we will also be travelling in some style. The Queen of the Mississippi was launched this August and is in her very first season of travels up and down the Mississippi and Ohio rivers. A classic-style stern-wheel paddlesteamer, she is built in retro style but with all mod cons and features, including larger-than-average staterooms, gorgeous lounges and public rooms, and a reputation for fine dining in the best traditions of American Cruise Lines.

It promises to be a fascinating and charming journey, so be sure to check in with us every day as we bring you a daily look at this genuine five-star travel experience.

It all starts on Saturday, November 3, and will last a full week (internet connection permitting!), and we hope to have some great photos to go with the daily blog. The full review, of course, will be in the Spring edition of World of Cruising.

And make sure you keep reading next month as we travel to wonderful Hawaii! 

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Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

If you haven't already, subscribe to the World of Cruising magazine today.