The Glorious Danube - Epilogue

Looking back at a wonderful 11-day voyage along the Danube with Uniworld Boutique River Cruises...

So, we finally had to say farewell to our water-borne 'home' for the best part of the last two weeks. The flight connection from Vienna back to London on the final morning went extremely well and the return home wasn't too severe (it wasn't raining, for a change!).

It was our first full river-cruise, and it couldn't have been any smoother or more memorable. Uniworld (with arrangements by UK tour experts Titan Travel) were ideal hosts and we were hugely impressed by the gracious onboard style, service and cuisine.

Nothing was ever rushed but everything was accomplished with ease, and the overall feeling of travelling in such elegant fashion with a large number of new-found friends was almost overwhelming. 

And, while the River Duchess didn't boast anything overtly flashy in terms of the onboard entertainment, there was always something to enjoy, from good conversation at the 24-hour coffee station to some amazing musical and folkloric shows in the main lounge.

Every meal was memorable and every crew member seemed to go out of their way to make things as seamless and enjoyable as possible. And, if the weather wasn't quite ideal at this time of year (just a bit too much rain, notably in Bulgaria and on our transit of the Iron Gates), it was certainly never cold and unpleasant (as it was back in the UK!).

If there was one mild criticism, perhaps we did spent a bit too long on the coaches on some days as we toured Bulgaria and Croatia, while more time in the surprise Hungarian city of Pecs would probably have been a good idea.

But, overall, the itinerary was extremely well balanced, superbly organised and highly educational, and we never lacked for information, history or just a good place to stop for a coffee!

Of the countries we visited, we probably saw enough of Romania and Bulgaria, but all of Serbia, Croatia, Hungary and Slovakia proved surprisingly beguiling and worthy of a return trip at some stage, while the journey through the Iron Gates gorge (below) was a real visual highlight.

Food-wise, we were wowed by the big Captain's Gala dinners at the start and end of the cruise; by the wonderful al fresco dining experience one evening; and by the superb array of fresh, local produce and signature national dishes offered throughout.

Complimentary wine or beer with lunch and dinner is an excellent selling point and we never had to think about what we might like at any given point, as our needs and wishes always seemed to be met as soon as we thought of them - right down to the wonderful late-night snacks that awaited us when we returned from evening excursions.

And, while we were impressed by every aspect of the service on board, we also need to single out several real stars, who all helped to make the whole cruise go with that perfect combination of personable and efficient:

Captain Michael Hofmann: the German master, now resident in Romania (and owner of his own watermelon farm!), was a huge hit with all concerned, especially for his rare sense of humour and ability to convey the real sense of fun in sailing along the Danube. I have rarely encountered a ship's captain with more natural bonhomie.

Cruise Manager Christine Bremberger: every river-cruise clearly needs a Master Planner to make sure all the shoreside arrangement go off without a hitch, as the importance of good daily excursions is paramount here. Christine must be one of the hardest-working people in the company as she was always either organising, conducting, narrating or explaining what we were seeing and doing at any given point. No request was too small or too complicated for her to handle.

Hotel Manager Jaroslav Veselka: our Slovakian cruise host was a master of quiet organisation, smooth efficiency and genuine friendliness. Once again, no request was ever met with a negative and everything seemed right at his fingertips in terms of ensuring the onboard operation ran like amiable clockwork. Our surprise wedding anniversary celebration was a great case in point, but, again, it was handled with effortless aplomb.

Maitre D' Dimitar and his restaurant team were always spot on with their service and ability to provide a great dining experience, and no meal went by without one highlight or another - although the soups were an amazingly consistent highlight and dessert was always a rare pleasure.

All in all, it is hard to imagine what more the Duchess could have done to make our cruise more enjoyable - except, perhaps, to have halted the space-time continuum, allowing us to stay on board for a lot longer. Perhaps next time...!

Oh, and after our wonderful trip to the Croatian school in Laslovo, I need to do a quick shout-out to my youngest 'follower,' Dalton from Plainfield Elementary School, Illinois, and my big Super Bowl pen-pal from earlier this year. Study hard, Dalton!

This ‘Imperial Capitals of Europe’ voyage can be booked at www.uniworldrivercruises.co.uk, with Titan Travel (in the UK only) at www.titantravel.co.uk or, for more on river-cruising in general, seek out the luxury cruise-agent specialists of The Cruise Line Ltd on this link.

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

If you haven't already, subscribe to the World of Cruising magazine today.

The Glorious Danube - Slovakia

Another day on our epic voyage along the Danube with Uniworld on their River Duchess, sailing from Romania to Austria

Bratislava

Country number six on our grand Danube voyage (reached shortly after mid-day following another experience with the river's many locks) proved possibly one of the most surprising of all. We had certain expectations of the likes of Romania, Serbia and Hungary, but Slovakia was definitely a journey into the unknown - a country with a much lower profile, but a much higher standard of living, as it turned out.

In fact, capital city Bratislava was possibly the most 'European' of all our ports of call so far, a thriving, bustling, energetic, cosmopolitan and astonishingly affluent city.

From the medieval Old Town to the uber-modern Eurovea shopping mall - full of designer names and well-known brands like Marks & Spencer, The Body Shop, Nike, Swarovski and Tommy Hilfiger - it is a city of sharp contrasts, with a lot of new development but a heart that remains pure enchantment.

The Slovak capital has been a lot of things in its time - German Pressburg, part of the Habsburg monarchy, the capital of Hungary, one of Hitler's conquests and half of the communist regime of Czechoslovakia. Like the rest of eastern Europe, it has endured a hectic ebb and flow of empires, kingdoms and invaders. But today's Bratislava is most definitely a happening place, fascinating to tour by day and with plenty of restaurant and nightlife for the evening.

With River Duchess mooring on the edge of the Old Town, it was easy for our tour-guide-of-the-day to walk us into the heart of the original city and steer us through some 1,000 years of history, culture and architecture.

Baroque palaces are two-a-penny in the historic centre, while the 17th century (rebuilt) Bratislava Castle overlooks the Old Town like a benevolent patriarch (above). Gothic St Martin's Cathedral is another notable landmark, while the Franciscan Church and Church of St Elizabeth are even older.

The narrow cobbled streets and courtyards are full of eye-catching facades and, after our three-hour tour, we took ourselves off on an extended version, peering into smaller courtyards, finding little-used streets and back-alleys, investigating some of the churches and, of course, doing a little shopping.

Eurovea (below) came as a major surprise and wouldn't have been out of place among the designer malls of Florida, although none of those in our home state can boasts the likes of Peek & Cloppenburg, Tchibo (the well-filled local supermarket) and an elegant river-front packed with open air cafes and restaurants.

If this was post-communist eastern Europe, the local people were the poster children for modern entrepreneurial spirit, with a joie de vivre that would put most Frenchmen to shame.

Once again, the public transport system of trams and buses looked busy and efficient, giving the whole city the appearance of a population moving forward, positively and dynamically.

With the wonderful array of cafes and bars also beckoning, we also indulged in a blissful coffee stop at Cafe Mayer in Main Square. Founded in 1873, it offered a preview of those twin Viennese indulgences of fancy coffee and pastries, and we eagerly sampled a taste or two while watching the comings and goings around the Square.

We managed to see almost all of the Old City (and parts of the new) on foot before wending a weary way back to the Duchess for a typically elegant dinner, followed by yet another entertainment surprise in the Danube Lounge.

This time, Uniworld had procured the Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra for our listening pleasure. Not all of it, of course, but two key members - the musical director/pianist and lead violinist, who also turned out to be a dab hand at various Slovak folk instruments.

Together, the dynamic duo (below) staged a 1-hour concert of quite breathtaking style and vigour, turning their hand at classical favourites and Slovakian folk songs with equal relish and finishing with a version of Offenbach's The Gallop (more usually known as Le Can-Can), with the violinist high-kicking his way to a frantic finale. The virtuosity alone was worth going a long way to witness but the sheer fun and enjoyment they brought to the performance was absolutely scintillating.

To finish with, I had to make one final excursion back into the Old Town, accompanied by Hotel Manager (and local resident) Jaroslav, just to sample a local beverage and get a feel for Friday night in Bratislava. We found a typical pub, Prazdoj, little more than 5 minutes walk from our berth, and enjoyed an excellent beer at just 2 euros a head. Fine value, indeed, in this surprising, captivating city.

And we still have two days in Vienna to look forward to...!  

This ‘Imperial Capitals of Europe’ voyage can be booked at www.uniworldrivercruises.co.uk, with Titan Travel (in the UK only) at www.titantravel.co.uk or, for more on river-cruising in general, seek out the luxury cruise-agent specialists of The Cruise Line Ltd on this link.

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

If you haven't already, subscribe to the World of Cruising magazine today.

The Glorious Danube - More Croatia

Continuing our epic Danube River voyage – the Imperial Capitals of Europe – on the River Duchess of Uniworld from Romania to Austria...

Surprising Croatia, Part 2

Having been sorted into groups for lunch, we were each dropped at different houses around the village and welcomed by the resident matriarch.

And it was no ordinary lunch, either. Each house turned out to be a local B&B, with the family providing a typical Croatian meal for all concerned. Calling them B&B’s is probably something of an over-statement as each household was merely a typical Croatian family with an extra room or two to take in paying guests from time to time.

Our hostess was Jasna Lovencic, a wonderfully welcoming lady with limited English but unlimited hospitality. As we sat down around one, long table in her lounge-kitchen, we were served a splendid tomato-pasta soup that positively reeked of being fresh from the garden and then a truly huge main course.

This latter deserves its own highlight – fresh baked chicken (from a cooker the size of the average mini-fridge – a real triumph of local logistics!), was accompanied by a rice dish, fresh pickles (amazingly crisp and tasty, and without the hint of vinegar), a typical paprika pepper dish marinaded in oil and garlic, a lettuce-type salad and fresh bread.

The whole meal was accompanied by home-made elderflower water (a really startling discovery) and Jasna’s own recipe slivovitz – still with that powerful fieriness but also an intensely warming and life-affirming tang. To say we were well fed would be the understatement of the month.

After lunch, the secret of our flavourful repast was revealed when we stepped out the back door – into a vegetable garden of prodigious size and resources (above). Fruit trees mingled with root plants, with row upon row of onions, potatoes, Swiss chard, spinach, beans, peas, chives, melon, red and white peppers, and radishes, plus a vast field of sunflowers (for the oil).

It was immediately clear – if it hadn’t been already from numerous similar views throughout every town and village – that Croatians rely heavily on their own produce at meal-time, hence every one is an absolute masterpiece of fresh delight. The peppers alone were worth travelling a LONG way to sample and every other group told similar stories of fresh, flavourful dishes.

With Jasna unable to explain much of her vegetable garden in English as she toured my wife around this cornucopia of produce, they were eventually able to communicate in German, although it took the internet to reveal Swiss chard from the local language!

And it was only after genuine hugs and a warm embrace that we were able to take our leave of Jasna and Karanak, back to our ship for a final wander around Vukovar, and another surprising onboard moment.

As it was our anniversary, a quiet word to Hotel Manager Jaroslav earlier in the day produced a quite magnificent cake with dessert at dinner that night, yet another tribute to the prowess of the pastry chef aboard (who would go on to treat guests to the secrets of Baklava and Strudel at special cooking demonstrations in the Blue Danube lounge).

To complete a memorable day, a four-piece Croatian folk group – two guitars, mandolin/bazouki and double base – treated us to a concert of traditional music and songs, all delivered with both great gusto and musical virtuosity, notably the bazouki player, who treated his instrument as would Menuhin a violin.

Yet another day of discovery along the Danube – and another fabulous reason to give it a try.

This ‘Imperial Capitals of Europe’ voyage can be booked at www.uniworldrivercruises.co.uk, with Titan Travel (in the UK only) at www.titantravel.co.uk or, for more on river-cruising in general, seek out the luxury cruise-agent specialists of The Cruise Line Ltd on this link.

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

If you haven't already, subscribe to the World of Cruising magazine today.

The Glorious Danube - Travelling The River

Continuing our epic river-cruise along the Danube on the River Duchess of Uniworld, travelling through eastern Europe...

Romania to Serbia, Part 1

Having detailed much so far about life on board, I thought I would take some time to provide a look at the destinations we are travelling through.

This is Uniworld’s ‘Imperial Capitals of Europe’ cruise, an 11-day glide through the heart of eastern Europe, from Romania to Austria, and taking in Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia, Hungary and Slovakia in between, a huge slice of European history, culture, geography and architecture (plus food and wine!).

The basic idea is to use the riverboat as your ‘mobile home’ along the way, providing a comfortable and elegant mode of transport through these many different areas (like the old-fashioned coach tour but much more leisurely and relaxing).

Having flown in to Bucharest (the majority of he rest of the passengers arrived via Istanbul, where Uniworld had arranged a 3-day pre-cruise stay), we were immediately afforded a literal taste of Romanian culture with a healthy lunch at a big local restaurant.

That was followed by a full coach tour of the city, stopping en route to marvel at some of the architectural gems of the city, like Nicola Ceausescu’s massive Parliament building and the central square where the local people finally stood up to the vicious dictator in 1989.

From Buharest, we were whisked south to the town of Girgiu – and the River Duchess, the beautifully remodelled 132-passenger vessel that operates this voyage west to Vienna. Our first view of the mighty Danube – Europe’s second-longest river after the Volga in Russia – was also a memorable occasion, a huge stretch of inexorable east-flowing water, with Bulgaria on the south bank.

Our ‘welcome aboard’ was the first sign that this was to be a truly stylish and memorable journey, with the crew providing fresh fruit juice and cold towels to wash away any traces of the road, and a quick escort to our cabin.

That evening g we ‘set sail’ – all the way across the river to Ruse! OK, so not the biggest journey in the world but an introduction to another new country to us. Dinner that night was a pure delight, a genuine taste of Uniworld’s graceful cuisine, featuring local tastes but delivered in best continental style from an amazingly efficient galley. Portions are (happily) not large, but with a starter, soup course, main course and dessert, it is certainly sufficient for most appetites.

Next morning, it was up bright and early for breakfast and then off on an all-day coach excursion into the hinterland, destination the 16^th and 17^th century towns of Veliko Tarnovo and Arbanassi (the latter being a UNESCO World heritage site).

The weather was unremittingly grim, sadly, but the ship provided umbrellas and we were still able to enjoy some eye-catching sight-seeing, a walking tour of Arbanassi (including the 17^th century merchant’s villa), a traditional lunch and a little shopping in Veliko Tarnovo with its array of local crafts.

Our longish journey back to the ship (which had moved up-river to Nikopol) took us through some of the poorest countryside in Bulgaria, and it was sobering to see such levels of near poverty  in this big rural area.

We sailed again that night – a bit further this time! – and awoke next day on one of the most evocative sections of the Danube between Romania and Bulgaria. Two mighty locks needed to be negotiated (the second, a double lock that took a full 90 minutes to pass through), providing plenty of visual stimulation, along with commentary from our Cruise Manager Christine.

The highlight, though, was saved for the final hour before dusk as we navigated the Iron Gates, the immense Danube gorge where the granite river walls soar more than 300ft above each side and narrow to just 160ft at one point. It makes for a stunning visual panorama, with our Duchess the only thing on the river in the fading brooding light and the sheer cliffs soaring on either side.

To be continued...

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

If you haven't already, subscribe to the World of Cruising magazine today.

The Glorious Danube - Part 3

Continuing our epic river-cruise along the Danube on the River Duchess of Uniworld, from Romania to Austria...

On Board A Riverboat

Those more familiar with ocean-going cruise-ships than classic European riverboats will surely want to know how they differ – and what the appeal is of a much smaller vessel.

Holding just 132 passengers when full (and only 82 on our cruise), the River Duchess basically consists of just three decks and minimal onboard facilities. There is just ONE lounge, ONE restaurant, ONE bar and ONE shop.

There is NO casino, NO show-lounge, NO swimming pool and NO alternative restaurant (or six). It is a quiet, refined and totally old fashioned atmosphere, leisurely, relaxed and dependent primarily on the crew for smooth service and the passengers for genuine camaraderie.

The three decks consist of two decks of cabins, plus one deck that provides the restaurant, front desk and the bar/lounge. There is then a top/observation deck, largely open to the elements, and replete with sun loungers, tables and chairs, plus a covered area with a sliding glass roof.

The ‘shop’ is basically a corner boutique kiosk, while the ’fitness centre’ offers four main pieces of equipment and a few free weights. There is a small laundry and a library/reading room, but there IS a masseuse aboard for massage and yoga classes.

Those looking for non-stop entertainment and revelry should look elsewhere. Here, instead of a Cruise Director there is a Cruise Manager who organizes the inclusive shore excursions, port talks and river narrative at points of interest. Instead of a theatre group, there are talks from visiting lecturers and folk troupes.

The only other frills are provided by the resident pianist/musician, and that’s the sum total of the entertainment.

What there IS, though, is great food, the kind of white-glove service usually found only in Europe’s top hotels, and a general sense of bonhomie and well-travelled conviviality. Many people on board are return Uniworld guests with a good knowledge of the area already, savvy people who fit the mood like a well-worn glove.

In short, it is cruising for the more laid-back and cerebral voyager, where the object is to see and learn rather than dash hither and thither in search of instant gratification.

Yes, the age range is 50-plus (60-plus in many cases), but this is also journeying in high style, with a great sense of ‘travelling’ rather than ‘cruising.’ Uniworld also pride themselves on the whole ‘boutique’ experience and, so far, they are 100% on the mark.

In addition, there is a strong element of cruise-touring, leaving the boat behind and venturing off on coach tours that explore the immediate hinterland of the voyage. As we soon discovered….

This ‘Imperial Capitals of Europe’ can be booked at www.uniworldrivercruises.co.uk, with Titan Travel (in the UK only) at www.titantravel.co.uk or, for more on river-cruising in general, seek out the cruise-agent specialists of The Cruise Line Ltd on this link.

PS: I am going to continue without photos for now as the Blogger format won't seem to upload any photos without trying 5 or 6 times!

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

If you haven't already, subscribe to the World of Cruising magazine today.

The Glorious Danube - Part 2

Continuing our epic Danube voyage in the company of Uniworld and Titan Travel, from Girgiu in Romania to Vienna in Austria...

Early Impressions – The Cabin

Being more familiar with ocean-going ships than river vessels, I was curious as to how our cabin would compare with the larger-scale version, even with a company as upmarket as Uniworld.

While the River Duchess is a sleek, classic riverboat, it isn’t the largest prospect in the world, hence it was hard to imagine the accommodations being especially spacious. I needn’t have worried.

The standard cabins measure a healthy 151sq ft and only the four suites are significantly different in any material way, providing all guests with a thoroughly cosseted experience.

The two single beds can be combined into a comfortable double, along with continental duvets and a choice of pillows. Individual air-conditioning ensures you can find your optimum temperature, and the compact, marbled bathroom is a mini-haven of creature comforts, with the power-shower a real blessing.

A basket of fresh fruit and bottle of Gleichenstein Spatburgunder awaited our arrival and we were able to toast our good fortune with a glass of Germany’s finest red win as we set sail.

A flatscreen TV, bottle of fresh filtered water, robes, slipper and free in-room wi-fi completed a truly elegant picture and we were instantly transported to a new realm of travelling comfort.

Double cupboards provide ample storage space for 11 days and, after unpacking, we were definitely ready for a new water-borne adventure.

Next stop, Bulgaria…

NB: Uniworld is the American-owned river-boat operator but their cruises are sold in the UK via Titan Travel, so you can look up www.uniworld.co.uk or www.titantravel.com.

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

If you haven't already, subscribe to the World of Cruising magazine today.

Danube - The Beginning

Beginning  a series of blog posts 'live' from the River Duchess of Uniworld and Titan Travel on a voyage from Romania to Austria

Day One: Arrival and embarkation

After a fairly exhausting near-two days of travel (Florida-London, London-Bucharest, Bucharest-Girgiu), we have arrived on board the beautiful River Duchess at the Danube port of Girgiu, the official start of our journey.

First impressions are of a very elegant, sleek vessel - very different from any of my previous cruises, even the small-ship versions.

This is more like travelling with a group of friends, but in quite elegant style.

The riverboat holds only 130 passengers, and there are only 82 on this voyage, hence it is definitely small-scale, personal and quite laid-back.

Our 'welcome aboard' made us feel like checking in at a top-class boutique European hotel, and the general look and ambience are similar.

We are getting ready for our first dinner aboard and also setting sail this evening - for the Bulgarian port across the river!

More soon...

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

If you haven't already, subscribe to the World of Cruising magazine today.