Panama Canal Cruise - Final Day

Concluding the live blog of our day-by-day Panama Canal cruise, sailing round-trip from Fort Lauderdale with Princess Cruises.

At Sea

We have come to the 10th and last day of our grand voyage, and will be extremely reluctant to disembark back in Fort Lauderdale tomorrow. It has been one of our most memorable cruises of recent years and we have loved the more laid-back but elegant style of the Coral Princess.

Obviously having five full sea days (with one extra from missing the Grand Cayman call) has helped to put this voyage firmly in the chill-out zone, but the ship's huge capacity to provide a great variety of relaxation areas is also notable. Put simply, if you want a slightly more old-fashioned, get-away-from-it-all type of cruise, this could well be for you.

While the Coral does have the obvious glitzy, modern amenities like the Casino, shopping district, full theatre, Movies Under The Stars, full-scale Spa and variety of alternative dining outlets, there is definitely something rather traditional and refined about her overall ambience, and it is immensely enjoyable, almost as if she is one of the 'secret gems' of the Princess fleet - not obvious, but very rewarding for those who enjoy a slower pace.

Given another full day to enjoy everything aboard, we have to decide this morning between the usual array of daytime activities - including a Spa seminar on 'secrets to a flatter stomach,' Morning trivia, a bridge lecture, an Outlet Sale in all the shops, Snowball Jackpot Bingo and a Culinary Demonstration & Galley Tour - or to give The Sanctuary a try, and move into total chill-out mode.

The Sanctuary wins, and we find only a handful of fellow passengers enjoying the expansive confines of the two aft decks, where full loungers, chairs and tables are set out both in the sun and shade, and the small Aft Pool is available for a cooling dip.

With 'Serenity Stewards' to provide chilled drinks (cucumber and orange water, iced tea), or hot tea and coffee, and an overall atmosphere of pure relaxation, we are happy to spend a few hours here (it is $10 per person for a half-day, or $20 all day) and then head for the Bayou Cafe for one of the signature Pub Lunches, which goes down extremely well (the likes of Fish & Chips, Steak & Kidney Pie, a Ploughman's Lunch and Bangers & Mash, plus Jam Roly-Poly).

However, we are not back on our loungers in The Sanctuary for long before the Captain has a serious announcement to make - one of the passengers is in need of urgent medical treatment and a Coast Guard helicopter has been despatched to pick them up off the ship, a delicate maneuver that requires all passengers to be cleared from the open decks for safety reasons.

That effectively puts an end to our Sanctuary time, but we are obviously more mindful of the fact someone's life could be in danger, hence we - and all our fellow passengers - do not feel put out in any way, and we are all keeping our fingers crossed for a safe airlift and successful conclusion in hospital (presumably in Miami). 

Instead of more lounging, we opt for the afternoon movie in the Princess Theater, Silver Linings Playbook, another of the Oscar-nominated films which seem to have been omni-present on this cruise. After the failings of Argo and the truly atrocious Beasts of the Southern Wild, we are charmed by Silver Linings, which has a genuine, old-fashioned heart and plenty of high-quality acting (we have already seen Lincoln, which is also on today, and rate it by far the best of all the nominees we have watched. How it didn't get the Oscar for Best Picture will always astound us).

By the time we exit the theatre, it is time to head back to our stateroom and start the hateful business of packing ready to put our suitcases out for collection this evening. This is always the one real bugbear of a cruise as it isn't something that can be done at the last minute and you have to plan around your apparel for the final evening and next morning.

We have a 7pm dinner reservation back at the Bayou Cafe & Steakhouse, where we completely fell in love with the place on our first night aboard. With Manager Vicente and our favourite waiter, Yordan, we are extremely happy to enjoy the fine fare here and the gentle jazz of the Argo Trio.

The final evening's entertainment is a mixed bag of the Farewell Variety Show, featuring the likes of stand-out vocalist Travis Turpin, comedian Steve Caouette and the ship's singers and dancers, the Princess Pop Star Final (not our cup of maritime tea) and the International Crew Show, which is usally a lot of fun.

Our final thoughts on the large-scale evening entertainment is that this probably isn't the ship's strongest suit. The guest performers are all well worthwhile, but the resident singers are only OK and the dancers sometimes lack the necessary snap and sizzle for this kind of thing. The musicians around the vessel vary from the highly proficient main band, to the great sounds of the Argo Trio, and the more mundance dance bands and pianist (although classical pianist Antoni Wcislo always sounds smooth and listenable).

We do manage to sign off in style, though, by taking part in the Multimedia Disney Trivia contest in the Explorers Lounge. My wife is a distinct Disney expert and, by joining forces with another couple, we find ourselves trivia champions for the second time in a few days and have a bottle of champagne to share for our troubles!

It is a fitting sign-off to a wonderful cruise, and one we would heartily recommend for those who like a slower-paced voyage, with fewer children around and a more 'grown-up' overall vibe. The itinerary is definitely more for those who like history and culture (and some wildlife), and not so much for those who want lots of beaches and shopping (stick to the northern and eastern Caribbean for that).

The Panama Canal was the undoubted highlight, even with only a partial transit, and the immensity, complexity and smooth-functioning of the Gatun Locks will stay long in our minds. But both Cartagena and Limon were definite hits with us, too.

Our vessel will also have to be one of the stars of the show, though, as she proved an admirable travelling vehicle for the 10 days and one we would be very happy to cruise on at any stage in future. The forthcoming new Royal Princess may be making all the headlines right now, but the Coral is definitely no slouch and, what she may lack in glitz, she certainly makes up for in elegant sophistication.

So, that was our full Princess Cruises experience, sailing round-trip from Port Everglades and returning to only a slight delay through immigration on our disembarkation (it was a Sunday, after all). We'd be happy to answer any questions you may have about the ship - and a full review will feature in the Summer edition of World of Cruising!

For more info and bookings – in the UK, call Princess Cruises on 0843 373 0333 or visit the expert cruise agents of The Cruise Line Ltd on this link; in the US, call 1866 335 6379, or visit www.princess.com.

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

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The Great Panama Canal Cruise - Day 9; Grand Cayman (Or Not)

Continuing the live blog of our day-by-day Panama Canal cruise, sailing round-trip from Fort Lauderdale with Princess Cruises.

We are due in to the island of Grand Cayman today, in theory our final port of call on the 10-day itinerary. Only the weather is not cooperating.

I have been here a few times before and enjoyed the likes of the Turtle Farm, Stingray City (where you can swim with - and feed - stingrays on this shallow sand bank), the smart town of Georgetown and the visit to Hell, the ultra-touristy little rock outcropping that has been named so the locals can sell all manner of branded goods to gullible visitors.

Our preference here is just to disembark the ship via tender at our leisure and stroll along beautiful Seven Mile Beach until we find a suitable bar/cafe for lunch, and then get a taxi back to town. But not today.

Sadly, the seas are throwing up the kind of swell that makes tender operations particularly dicey and, while our Captain tries several ways to maneuver the ship, there is no getting around the fact it doesn't look 100% safe for all concerned. Hence, after looking at an alternative mooring, the Captain decides we will have to give Grand Cayman a miss for this cruise, sadly.

For one of the richest islands in the region, it does make you wonder why Grand Cayman has never invested in a proper harbour, though. They certainly receive enough cruise interest and, when the likes of Cozumel, Jamaica and others can all provide the necessary infrastructure, it is certainly a surprise that this island doesn't.

It IS one of the unfortunate elements of cruising that tender ports - where the ship cannot get in to a berth and has to use its own tenders, or those provided by the port - can be a bit of a lottery. Safety of both passengers and ship is each captain's No 1 priority, and heavy sea conditions will certainly work against a port at times. 

This is one of those times and there is nothing left but to pull up the anchor and head slowly off on our northerly course. In some cases it is possible to provide an alternative port of call, but, with nothing else close by or en route that can 1) provide a berth, and 2) keep the ship on track for its timely return to Port Everglades, we are destined merely for an extra sea day, making three in all to finish the voyage. 

That's probably not ideal for some passegers (especially those who have never been to the Cayman islands before), but we are quite happy just to enjoy another chill-out day in the Caribbean.

It is also interesting to see how the ship's onboard entertainment and dining departments cope with an unexpected change in plans. The simple answer is - extremely well.

Within a couple of hours, there is a new version of the Princess Patter daily information sheet, with all the programmes and activities for the day, and there are plenty of additional opportunities to enjoy, as well as a full lunch in the Provence dining room.

A relatively light onboard programme (on the basis of most people going ashore) has been filled out with the likes of an extra movie (Skyfall) in the Princess Theater, a line dance class, a bridge lecture, an impromptu indoor golf competition (right), a musicians get-together, Snowball Jackpot Bingo, more music in the lounges, water volleyball and a fun Paper Ball Drop in the Atrium.

There is no shortage of things to do plus, of course, there is the full array of options on the Lido deck, sports deck, Lido Pool, Spa, Sanctuary and other dining outlets. No-one is likely to be bored - or go hungry!

In the evening, there is another full programme (albeit of the fully-scheduled variety), including the excellent vocal impressionist Travis Turpin, who we rate as the best of the guest performers so far, more movies, a Pavarotti concert in the Explorers Lounge and Country & Western night in the Universe Lounge.

We also manage to make dinner in the Provence dining room last the best part of two hours as we sit chatting with another interesting and highly companionable table group, including port lecturer Chris Roberts. 

Dinner has become an absolute highlight for us each day, and manager Carlos seems highly adept at putting together convivial groupings. The evening also finished with the customary Parade of dining room and galley staff, taking a well-earned bow and round of applause from the people they have fed so well for the whole cruise. We are definitely going to miss this at home!

Tomorrow – Final Day At Sea.

For more info and bookings – in the UK, call Princess Cruises on 0843 373 0333 or visit the expert cruise agents of The Cruise Line Ltd on this link; in the US, call 1866 335 6379, or visit www.princess.com.

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

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The Great Panama Canal Cruise, Day 8, At Sea

Continuing the live blog of our day-by-day Panama Canal cruise, sailing round-trip from Fort Lauderdale with Princess Cruises.

More Leisurely Thoughts

After a run of four straight port calls, it is good to take things down a notch or two with another relaxed sea day, giving us a chance to catch our breath, review the amazing experiences of the past few days, and enjoy the full array of facilities aboard the expansive Coral Princess.

With no tours in the offing and no wake-up calls to set, we take the opportunity for a lie-in and give breakfast a miss completely. Instead, we wander down to the International Café for a coffee and pastry and take a stroll around the ship.

We are keen to take in lecturer Chris Roberts’ port talk on Grand Cayman – the next port of call – at 1.30pm, so we head for an early lunch at the Provence dining room. That gives us plenty of time to reach the Princess Theater and enjoy the last of Chris’ excellent port insights (sadly, he won’t be on the next cruise, as he’s contracted elsewhere, but there will, of course, be another expert lecturer to take his place).

In need of exercise, we take a couple of turns around the Promenade Deck and then have a look around the pool decks. The genuinely amazing thing about this ship is just how much space there is for lounging and relaxing. Almost everywhere you look there is somewhere open to enjoy the sun, the sea view or just a quiet corner. It is the perfect recipe for really enjoying your sea-going home.

This is also a major movie-going ship, with the chance to catch a film on the big Movies Under The Stars screen overlooking the Lido Deck, in the Princess Theater, the Explorers Lounge or just in your cabin on TV (with 4 dedicated movie channels). Today, we take in the Oscar-nominated Beasts of the Southern Wild in the main theatre – but wish we hadn’t. What total, inexplicable, atrocious nonsense. What was the Academy thinking??

Anyway, the more relaxed day also gives us the chance to review the cruise in more detail and decide what we like (and aren’t so keen about) over the eight days so far since we embarked back at Port Everglades.

What We Like

I’ve already said it, but the spaciousness of the ship is remarkable, easily the best we have seen on a vessel of this size (90,000 tons, 2,050 passengers). There is virtually nowhere that feels crowded, and the occasional bottleneck (initial disembarkation in port, occasionally at the Bordeaux dining room around 6pm and exiting the Princess Theater) usually smoothes out quickly.

The enormous variety of activities and programmes during the day is also impressive, with an imaginative array of options, from lectures and fitness seminars to daily trivia, bingo, deck games, music, dance classes and, of course, movies. There are usually three or four choices at any one time.

The ship is wonderfully steady and has great sea-going characteristics, which means she sails well, even in moderate weather. She is a sleek shape for a modern vessel, almost 970ft long and 106ft wide, but only 14 decks high, which makes her a bit less ‘top-heavy’ in appearance than many of her contemporaries.

Excellent dining choice – from the two main dining rooms (one for Anytime Dining, the other for fixed, regular seating), to the two signature alternative restaurants (Bayou Café & Steakhouse and Sabatini’s) and the newly-redesigned Horizon Court buffet, plus the on-deck Bar & Grill, Pizzeria and Ice Cream bar, plus the recent addition of the International Café, there is something for everyone at all times of the day. The addition of afternoon tea (on sea days) and a Pub Lunch (periodically throughout the cruise) provide even more reason to enjoy time aboard.

By the same token, the onboard service is rarely less than highly proficient and usually wonderfully personable, too. The bar service is a real highlight (notably in the Wheelhouse Bar) but the Bordeaux dining room, led by head waiters Carlos and Marius, is simply excellent.

And, as two places that epitomise pretty much all of the above, we especially enjoy spending time in the indoor Lotus Pool and the Bayou Café, where the restaurant/bar ambience is enhanced by the cool jazz sounds of the Argo Trio – possibly the best of the ship’s many live music offerings.

And What We Don’t

The stateroom shower. Ugh. This is so tiny it could have been designed in the 1980s, when most cabins were equally poorly designed, space-wise. My elbows have taken a real beating in here.

Early port disembarkations can be a bit chaotic; it’s almost the only time things feel a bit crowded from the 2,050 aboard. Then, and when leaving after a show at the Princess Theater, which has only two exits. The air-conditioning in the Theater also varied between Cold and Arctic. Taking a sweater or jacket here is highly advisable.

And that’s about all the negatives we can come up with so far. Definitely a lot on the plus side.

Tomorrow – Grand Cayman.

For more info and bookings – in the UK, call Princess Cruises on 0843 373 0333 or visit the expert cruise agents of The Cruise Line Limited on this link; in the US, call 1866 335 6379, or visit www.princess.com.

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

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The Great Panama Canal Cruise, Day 7, Costa Rica

Continuing the live blog of our day-by-day Panama Canal cruise, sailing round-trip from Fort Lauderdale with Princess Cruises.

(NB: Apologies for the delay, but the internet connection at sea today has not been consistent)

Limon

This small Central American country has become a big name in tourism in recent years, and we are very keen to see what it has to offer in today’s visit to its largest Caribbean port.

In truth, the Caribbean side of Costa Rica is the ‘wet’ one, with an astonishing amount of rain – around 200 inches – per year, leading to the rich, verdant rainforests that cloak the coastline. Under heavy clouds, the terrain marches inland to a string of mountains that effectively cut the country in half, the highest peak towering to 13,000ft.

We are told this is the first ‘dry’ day in almost a week, the town of Limon having endured five straight days of rain, which gives the whole place a damp, rather downbeat appearance. We are docked barely five minutes from the town centre and there is also a highly worthwhile little craft market inside the port area, providing plenty of shopping opportunities for those who don’t want to stray too far from the ship!

In truth, the 30 or so little stalls under one roof feature some of the most original and enjoyable arts and crafts we have yet seen on the cruise, with some outstanding woodwork, pottery and artwork, including some eye-catching pictures hand-painted on neutral-coloured bird feathers. There is also plenty of high-quality Costa Rican coffee to be had (around $10 a pound) and even a few salon stalls featuring manicures, pedicures and hair-braiding.

Walking out of the port authority building, we cross the street to a rather down-at-heel park and turn left into Limon’s main street. Now, this is not your typical Main Street; this is Central America, and not the tourist version. It is the heart of a typical working community that probably had its hey-day in the 1950s and is busy but not thriving.

The streets are fascinating but slightly challenging; pavement maintenance is not high on the agenda here and many buildings look in need of some urgent TLC. The 1941 building housing the central produce market is well worth a look as, again, it is very much a working facility and makes for a neat contrast with the Colonial splendour – and tourist appeal – of Cartagena.

Those who like things neat, clean and inviting will probably not want to venture this way, but those who enjoy seeing the beating heart of another culture will certainly appreciate Limon. There are probably back-streets where visitors should not venture, but the main street and market are perfectly viable. This is not the scrubbed, tidy, identikit and tourist-inspired Caribbean but the genuine, down-to-earth, working reality, and our impromptu walk is both invigorating and charming.

We return via the rather sodden pathways of the park, where some inexplicable statues hint at former glories while we also engage a few local children – probably about 13 or 14 years of age – and are told, in excellent English, about some of the delights of Limon, including “very good Wi-Fi,” which comes as something of a surprise, as does their farewell greeting of “Have a good day, sir!” Clearly, the youngsters here are a polite bunch.

Back on board, we are a bit early for lunch so make a last-minute decision to try the Daily Trivia contest in the Wheelhouse Bar. Much to our surprise, our two-person ‘team’ manages 18 out of 20 and finds itself in a tie for first place. The tie-breaker question asks how many seats there are in the Princess Theater – we guess at 750, the other team suggests 1450. We are closest (the exact figure is 635) and so it is victory for Team Veness!

After a quick lunch at the International Café (which is proving a big favourite with us for meals, snacks and speciality coffees, especially their salads and paninis), we are off on our chosen shore excursion, a trip to a Banana Plantation and Canal-boat eco-tour.

Before we have gone far out of town, our driver, Bosco, spots a troupe of howler monkeys in some trees and stops for a photo opportunity, while he also stops at regular intervals to dive into the underbrush with his machete (every coach-driver’s chosen accessory, it seems!) and return with some choice item of fruit or plant-life for our guide, Erick, to explain.

It is a thoroughly entertaining double-act that keeps us amused all the way to the Filadelfia Del Monte plantation, where we can see huge stalks of bananas arriving by special zipline courier (which has to be seen to be believed, as the workmen coast in along these long overhead cable-ways), to be sorted, cut, cleaned and sized before they are shipped out.

This plantation employs around 500, and the bananas are packed ready for the two-week journey to the US or the three-week trip to Europe.

After the half-hour stop, we drive on to the eco-tour, which also offers a small craft stall and some drinks and fresh fruit. For the next two hours, we cruise up and down a narrow waterway that parallels the coast at a distance of just a few hundred yards.

Here, among the genuine rainforest for which Costa Rica is well known, our boat captain and Erick conduct a master-class in the local flora and fauna, pointing out tree sloths, howler monkeys, and a host of bird-life, as well as several emerald basilisks (a genuine prehistoric-looking reptile) and iguanas.

The bird-life includes various kingfishers, herons, egrets and other tropical varieties, including a superb black-collared hawk, and our guides’ ability to spot this amazing variety of wildlife is absolutely astonishing, highlighted by an encounter with 10 tiny, sleeping fruit bats, each only a few inches across and perched in line half-way up a tree trunk. From just a few yards away they were all but invisible, but our captain spotted them from 20 or so yards distant.

We could easily have spent hours more cruising up and down this intriguing waterway, which opened out at one point to a river almost 100 yards across, and we were very impressed by the overall picture of Costa Rica that emerged from our day ashore.

Back aboard, we are again grateful for a hot shower to freshen up, and we take in the 6.30 performance of the main evening show, Dance!, which is definitely the best of the big production shows so far, with an excellent finale featuring a Lord of the Dance type Irish ensemble.

Dinner turns out to a be a wonderfully protracted affair on a table for 10 in the Bordeaux dining room, as we chat merrily away until the staff are busy clearing he tables all around us! It is Italian Night in both main dining rooms, and the highlight is undoubtedly the special course of penne arrabiata served up by our head waiter Marius, who mans a cooking station nearby to turn out a non-stop supply of freshly-made pasta in a spicy garlic-tomato sauce.

Marius has already proved to be a huge aid with our low-sodium diet at each meal, but now he proves a dab hand with the frying pan, too!

Tomorrow – A Day At Sea.

For more info and bookings – in the UK, call Princess Cruises on 0843 373 0333 or visit the expert cruise agents of The Cruise Line Limited on this link; in the US, call 1866 335 6379, or visit www.princess.com.

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

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The Great Panama Canal Cruise - The Canal, Pt 2

Continuing the daily live blog of our big Panama Canal cruise, sailing round-trip from Fort Lauderdale with Princess Cruises.

The Panama Canal

Having completed our journey ‘up’ to Gatun Lake, we are riding at anchor, awaiting our turn to go back ‘down’ again, and enjoying the views around this amazing Lake – the largest man-made body of water in the world prior to the creation of the Hoover Dam.

Before we know it, it is our turn to pass through again and, this time, we take advantage of the full array of observation points around the ship to see everything from a different perspective; from the Splash Pool area on Deck 16; on the starboard side of Deck 15; down on the Promenade Deck (7), on both sides; and aft on Deck 16 behind the Center Court games area.

It ensures a thorough and well-rounded view of this absolute technological marvel, as well as a glimpse of the brand new channel and set of locks under construction parallel to the existing ones that will more than double the capacity of the Canal from 300,000,000 tons a year to in excess of 600,000,000. Like ‘Wow!’ and then ‘Double wow!’

It is warm and humid but far from uncomfortable – this is the ‘dry’ season, hence easy to bear; from late April to early December, the ‘rainy’ season kicks in with temperatures in the 90s and humidity at 98%, plus constant, heavy downpours that add up to an annual rainfall of more than 140 inches. #Megawet!

By 3.30pm we are in the port city of Colon on the Caribbean end of the Canal’s 50-mile transit, and able to walk off for a look around the small shopping area. We have also been able to watch the full documentary film on the making of the Canal, take lunch at the Bar & Grill and, more importantly, re-charge the camera battery. We already have more than 400 photos of the trip so far, and today will add at least 100 more.

This is a busy port city, with dozens of small frieghters lined up in the bay, while the docks are busy handling large container ships and several huge, box-like car transporters.

 

After a mini shopping expedition we are back on board and in need of a shower and freshen up. We have dinner at Sabatini’s at 7pm tonight, our first chance to sample Princess’s signature alternative restaurant, and we also want to catch comedian Steve Caouette.

Caouette is new on board, having just arrived via Costa Rica and is terrific fun, with a great running gag involving late arrivals to the show. We then head straight for Sabatini’s, and the best meal to date – an Italian extravaganza involving beautifully fresh antipasti, a heavenly mushroom tartlet, calamari, farfalle pasta with meatballs (immensely succulent and delicately flavoured), lobster and duck, then two heavenly desserts (don’t miss their Zabaglione) to finish with, all accompanied by an excellent chianti and service from our Romania waitress, Laura.

As you can immediately tell, that is WAY too much food for two, but, once again, we were suckered in by a fabulous array of tastes, and simply couldn’t help ourselves.

It only remained to waddle our way back to our stateroom and collapse in two distended heaps, with an in-room movie for comfort.

It had been an immense, utterly memorable day and we have already decided that we must return for a full Canal transit at some stage. This is too fascinating a part of the world not to want to see more, but we are equally happy we stayed on board and got the full locks experience both ways for our first visit.

The men who struggled to build the Canal back at the turn of the century deserved our full appreciation, and we would absolutely recommend this trip in a heartbeat.

Tomorrow – Costa Rica.

For more info and bookings – in the UK, call Princess Cruises on 0843 373 0333 or visit the expert cruise agents of The Cruise Line Limited on this link; in the US, call 1866 335 6379, or visit www.princess.com.

 

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

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The Great Panama Canal Cruise - The Canal, Pt 1

Continuing the daily live blog of our big Panama Canal cruise, sailing round-trip from Fort Lauderdale with Princess Cruises.

The Panama Canal

Our first view of one of the great engineering and human achievements in the world is pretty small-scale – a dim view of lights in the near distance building into a Christmas-tree effect as we get closer.

It is 6am and the first light of dawn is filtering through a heavy overcast, slowly revealing the outline of the Gatun locks of the great Canal, which opened almost 100 years ago.

We have inched up the initial stage of the Canal from Colon, on the Caribbean side of the Isthmus, and, within a few miles, are ready to enter the first part of the three-stage locks that lift ships up some 85ft to the level of Lake Gatun that effectively acts as a ‘bridge’ across this narrow part of Central America.

As it slowly becomes fully light, we can take in the overall effect of this spectacular achievement – the highlight of our cruise and one of the top sights in the wide world of cruising.

We are not here for a full transit but we will see the Gatun locks in action, twice, as we pass through on the way ‘up’ to the lake, then anchor for a while to allow a number of excursions ashore and then turn around and go ‘down’ again to the Caribbean.

It is a truly awe-inspiring sight as we maneuver into the first lock and are attached to four ‘mules’ - $2million train-type engines that maintain the ship’s position through each lock in a continuous pull up the full 85ft ascent.

There are two sets of locks, side by side, and a large freighter is already into the second lock alongside us, demonstrating the smooth, efficient and quite breathtaking transit that takes about an hour.

From our balcony we watch the entire “performance” as all 90,000 tons of the Coral Princess is carefully eased into position, using its own power and the two sets of mules fore and aft, and the first lock is then filled to the level of the second so we can move up in 28ft increments.

Many people are out on deck – and look like they have been there since 5am! – but we have a perfectly good view to start with. We can also enjoy the ultimate indulgence of room service and breakfast on our balcony as we pass through into the third lock.

The onboard lecturer maintains a regular commentary from the Bridge, and this is relayed both out on deck and on the in-cabin TV, ensuring everyone gets the full insight into what we are seeing. The ship’s ‘Bridge-Cam’ TV channel also provides an excellent forward view of the whole process.

It is a thrilling view, a slow-motion ballet of machinery that steadily urges us into the hinterland of Panama, this controversial country caused in a revolutionary breakaway from Colombia in 1903 and supported by the USA in their desire to build the Canal.

The effort took them 10 years and more than 5,000 dead men in a monumental building programme the like of which the world had never seen. It is all brilliantly documented in David McCullough’s book The Path Between The Seas, which also details the tragic French attempts from 1870-1890, and is essential reading for anyone heading this way (and anyone who just loves scintillating, well-written history).

Up in Gatun Lake, the totally man-made body of water created in the final stage of the Canal’s construction, there are another nine ships awaiting their turn to pass ‘down’ the lock chain, and the constant slow passage of traffic through the locks is almost mesmerising.

Next – Canal Pt 2 and Colon.

For more info and bookings – in the UK, call Princess Cruises on 0843 373 0333 or visit the expert cruise agents of The Cruise Line Limited on this link; in the US, call 1866 335 6379, or visit www.princess.com.

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

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Panama Canal Cruise, Day 5 – Colombia

Continuing the day-by-day account of our big Panama Canal cruise, sailing round-trip from Fort Lauderdale with Princess Cruises.

Cartagena

Having sailed smoothly right across the Caribbean Sea, our arrival this morning on the northern coast of South America is a memorable one as we negotiate the islands and navigation entrance to the port of Cartagena, Colombia’s fourth-largest city.

It’s hard to know what to make of this at first, as it isn’t immediately obvious what you’re looking at as Coral Princess moves into position in the big container port docks. On either side is a large, built-up area, with high-rise condos on one side and low-rise urban sprawl on the other. Somewhere in the middle is the 17^th century Old City and the fortress of San Felipe, but neither is visible from our initial vantage point.

It is going to be a hot day – with the forecast for temperatures of 86F, 30C, and no rain, but high humidity – and so it is time to break out the high-factor suncream. It may be March, but sunburn is still a very real danger in this latitude.

We are booked on the City Highlights & Fortress tour, and there is initially some confusion and crowding as half the ship seems intent on assembling in the Bordeaux dining room for the tours. But things are soon sorted out and we are off in plenty of time to meet the fleet of buses waiting along the dock.

Tour No. 9 is our tour, and we are bus No. 6 with Corpus as our guide and Lucco our driver, navigating the crowded morning streets with ease. For the next four-plus hours we are treated to an in-depth look at the history, architecture and culture of this key point in Colombian history dating back to the 16^th century and fighting through the depths of the Inquisition, the maraudings of French and British pirates, an invasion by British-American forces in 1741, and the battle for independence from Spain in 1811.

The Old City is an absolute gem, a masterpiece of colonial Spanish architecture with overtones of San Juan, Havana and St Augustine, and the Fortress provides a magnificent overview of both Old and New sections. Corpus keeps up a steady stream of insightful info and we also get two good shopping stops to view local crafts (and buy some of the excellent local coffee, to top up my supply from Hawaii last December!). The tour concluded with a drive through the new Bocagrande island district, where modern hotels and condos bestride the landscape, along with the inevitable shops and cafes.

The ever-present local vendors and hawkers are a little tiresome but most of them do respond to a polite ‘No, gracias.’

It all makes for a fascinating look at this unique part of the world, where the African slave trade first flourished and gave rise to all kinds of cultural anomalies over the centuries, and we felt there was still plenty of the Old City to explore in a future visit.

The mid-afternoon sailing ensured we got another look at the island entrance route, in bright sunshine this time but, by late afternoon we were back in the south-western reaches of the Caribbean, making full-speed for the Isthmus of Panama, with the promise of an early start (i.e. at first light) tomorrow!ighlightH

Tomorrow – The Canal.

For more info and bookings – in the UK, call Princess Cruises on 0843 373 0333 or visit the expert cruise agents of The Cruise Line Limited on this link; in the US, call 1866 335 6379, or visit www.princess.com.

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Panama Canal Cruise, Day 4 – Aruba

Continuing the day-by-day account of our big Panama Canal cruise, sailing round-trip from Fort Lauderdale with Princess Cruises.

Netherlands Antilles

After two full days at sea to get the hang of our sea-going home, we arrived at the island of Aruba bright and early this morning, ready to stretch our legs ashore for the first time since Thursday afternoon.

Curiously, we are here only until 1pm, when we set sail again for Colombia, but it is long enough to have a good wander around the main city of Oranjestad, where we are moored barely five minutes away.

In many ways, it is typical Caribbean port fare – jewellery stores, T-shirt and souvenir kiosks, and cafes. But there is also something not typically Caribbean about Aruba; it is more arid, windswept and barren; it is also far more European, with the Dutch stewardship still well in evidence. The musical sounds are more Latin, and the overall vibe is somehow a distinct mix of all three sources – European, Caribbean and South American.

There are a number of tempting tours on offer, including submarine and snorkeling varieties, but we are happy just to stroll the streets of Oranjestad and take in the shops – and wildlife. Because the island’s trademark iguanas are never far away and the bird and marine life is also rich and well in evidence.

It is a comfortable 30-minute walk from one end of the town to the other, and, while it is pretty hot and humid, it is good to be out and about, although a stop at a harbor-front bar for an ice-cold beer is also a pretty good idea.

We are easily back on board by the appointed mid-day return time, with the chance to see more of Aruba from the top decks before lunch in the Provence dining room.

Our next ‘appointment’ isn’t until 3pm – a well-attended Sommelier’s Wine Tasting session – so we have some more balcony reading time (and more chance to get through the book that has quickly become an addiction, The Path Between The Seas).

We have a 4pm meeting with Hotel Director Martin May to learn a bit more about the ship’s recent refit in Bermuda and get an insight into this particular cruise, which, it turns out, is a classic example of Princess’s Panama Canal operations, with a high repeat factor among the passenger list and a slightly older clientele due to it being more than seven days in duration.

Retreating to the balcony once more, we are enthralled by the sight of an array of gulls and other sea-birds ‘dive-bombing’ our wash to snatch flying-fish out of the air as the fish are startled into flight by our passing. It is an amazing nature lesson – and a fascinating insight into avian evolution, as the birds have obviously learned this tactic over time from other passing ships.

Finally, it is dinner-time again, and we are ushered to a table for eight in the Bordeaux restaurant to enjoy another lively evening of swapping shore excursion stories and other travel tales while enjoying possibly the best meal in the main dining room so far – fresh ceviche, calamari steak and a superb Grand Marnier soufflé.

Once again, we are impressed by the full range of dining choice, and the evening concludes in style with The Ultimate Deck Party as we head for our next port of call, on the South American mainland…

Tomorrow – Cartagena.

For more info and bookings – in the UK, call Princess Cruises on 0843 373 0333 or visit the expert cruise agents of The Cruise Line Limited on this link; in the US, call 1866 335 6379, or visit www.princess.com.

 

 

 

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Panama Canal Cruise, Day 3 – More Leisure At Sea

Continuing the day-by-day account of our big Panama Canal cruise, sailing round-trip from Fort Lauderdale with Princess Cruises.

Another Day At Sea

As we are now properly chilled out from our first day at sea, there is more chance to unwind and explore our ocean-going ‘home’ for the next eight days with a second successive sea day, en route to the Netherlands Antilles.

Coral Princess is certainly not a small ship, but she is not gigantic by modern terms. At 90,000 tons and carrying around 2,000 passengers, she takes a fair bit of navigating but, once you get your bearings, everything is fairly straightforward.

The central Atrium is the core around which much of ship life radiates, with the four decks from 5-8 housing most of the entertainment and dining choice. At the top are the Card Room, Library and rather snazzy Internet Café, while the lower level offers the Shore Excursions deck, Patisserie Bar, Hotel Front Desk and Bordeaux dining room (for the Princess Anytime Dining option, which means you turn up when you’re ready, not at one of the two ‘fixed’ seatings in more traditional fashion, which is the case at the Provence Dining Room on Deck 6).

The full array of decks 6 and 7 house the three main entertainment options of the Princess Theatre, Universe Lounge (a surprisingly large, two-tiered second show-lounge) and the Explorers Lounge; the alternative dining of the Bayou Café, Sabatini’s and the International Café; and the other bar-lounges of the ultra-traditional Wheelhouse Bar, Crooners piano bar, the Churchill Lounge (for cigar smokers) and the Casino, as well as the neat array of shops (four of them) and the Wedding Chapel.

Deck 7 is also the Promenade Deck, with the chance to walk a full circuit of the ship and enjoy ocean views from a proper steamer chair, which is something of a Princess/P&O signature touch.

The rest of decks 8-12 are given over to accommodations, with a high percentage of staterooms boasting a balcony, which is pure bliss here in the Caribbean. Finally, the top three decks are home to most of the ‘outdoor’ facilities, from the sports deck and putting green to the main pool, covered area of the Lotus Pool, the Lotus Spa, Fitness Center, adults-only retreat of The Sanctuary and the buffet-style of the newly-refitted Horizon Court, Pizzeria and The Bar & Grill.

Princess pioneered the outdoor-film phenomenon several years ago with the introduction of Caribbean Princess, complete with a huge LED video screen above the pool deck that provided a genuine new entertainment offering that they call Movies Under The Stars, and this is something we enjoy immensely as another great source of cruise-going relaxation.

We have yet to sample the Lotus Spa or the Sanctuary but, with two more sea days to enjoy before the end of the cruise, there is a very good chance we will do that!

Our stateroom, B423, is one of the many balcony versions, a spacious and comfortable retreat on Deck 11 midships with that wonderful amenity of your own private outdoor space in which to sit and watch the Caribbean go by; to soak up some sun, read a book and enjoy breakfast on from time to time. Go back little more than 15 years, and balcony cabins were a rarity; now they are almost de rigueur.

If those are the broad outlines of this cruise, the detail is pretty good, too. Service from the mixture of East European and Filippino staff is smooth and well-grooved, with a smattering of Brits in the hotel department (notably Cruise Director Stuart and Hotel Manager Martin), an Italian Captain and engineering dept, and American entertainers. It is a tried and trusted mix, and everything works extremely well (so far), with

Given that broad outline, our second sea day was, if anything, even more indulgently laid back than the first. A late rising gave way to a light breakfast (coffee and pastry) at the International Café, followed by some home-made arts and crafts at the make-your-own-Panama-poster station just along on Deck 6.

After a quick break to get today’s blog under way, we returned to the International Café for a light early lunch (some tasty chicken paninis and Greek salad) as we wanted to take in the 1pm showing the movie Argo at the Princess Theater, which proved pretty popular. It is, as the Oscars would attest, a gripping film, but we still think Steven Spielberg’s Lincoln is better.

Afternoon tea in the Bordeaux dining room followed at 3.30, with a couple of turns around the Promenade Deck afterwards to walk off some of the tea-time largesse! That was then complemented by another few hours on the balcony in the grip of The Path Between The Seas, which is quickly turning into a major book-reading event.

Startled by our clock revealing it was now past 6.30, we made a quick assault on the bathroom to freshen up for dinner, where a table for six was procured with great alacrity and we enjoyed another memorable and convivial meal, with tonight’s highlights being the excellent Corvina fish dish and the Crawfish Crockpot. With dessert and coffee things were now progressing well past 9pm and we had to decide whether to retire for a final few hours’ reading or visit one of the entertainment lounges.

‘The Book’ won (again), on the basis that the comedian and magician will be on again later in the cruise – and I’m keen to read as much as possible before the Canal…!

Tomorrow – Land Ahoy! Aruba.

For more info and bookings – in the UK, call Princess Cruises on 0843 373 0333 or visit the expert cruise agents of The Cruise Line Limited on this link; in the US, call 1866 335 6379, or visit www.princess.com.

Time Spent at Sea has moved and can now be found at World of Cruising. You can follow World of Cruising on Twitter and Facebook for the very latest in cruise news.

If you haven't already, subscribe to the World of Cruising magazine today.